Cultural Appropriation or Appreciation?
The last time I wrote about a designer borrowing cultural elements was for Jean Paul Gaultier’s Mens SS13. At that time, it was a moment of glory that the Sikh turban was being given the rightful spotlight and appreciated along with other cultural bits - from kilts to mandarin collars.
Looking back, I’m not so sure it’s appreciation as much as it’s blatant appropriation. Considering the Sikh turban is worn as a religious symbol, to then popularize it as a trendy must-wear item of clothing in the exact shape becomes contentious.
More so because it perpetuates the idea that if non-Sikh were to don it, they would look ineffably cool but perceptions toward Sikhs who wear it on a daily basis remain unchanged. Sikhs in turbans are still seen as backward or even unkempt. Sikhs are still being targeted as potential terrorists and ridiculed for wearing ‘balls on their head’.
So should the very simple act of a fashion designer 'borrowing’ an item of clothing from a culture be applauded or shamed? Especially when the said article of clothing is traditionally worn as signifier of the Sikh faith.
It’s great that the turban is receiving the attention, it is one step closer to understanding the Sikh culture. But it deserves rightful appreciation, extended to the wearer as well.
There exists a fine and rather blurry line between what is cultural appropriation and cultural appreciation. After all, where would fashion be if not for the vast variety of cultures, with their own traditions and why should they not have their voices expressed in an increasingly Westernized world. Many designers have used this and created brand new works and stunning designs but others have not.
Just recently, my news feed imploded with Paul Smith’s Robert Sandals. To the uninformed, the shoes may be a stroke of genius, with its classy neon piping and rather unique form. Everyone else who have been to our neck of the woods will know that the 'Robert’ sandals are essentially Peshawari Chappals which were given a western makeover. Very much like the Outside-of-India Born Indian.
Here’s where the issue gets tricky because while it could be cultural appreciation, it wasn’t appreciated right. I would have been contented if Paul Smith named the shoe Peshawari Sandals. Or gave some form of recognition to where the idea came from (they did eventually after a concentrated attempt via social media and South Asian press), even if I believe an argument can be made for 'inspired’ and 'rip-off’.These are essentially shoes that Pashtun men have worn for the last 200 years so it’s most definitely not new.
The fashion industry has always been snarky to manufacturers who produce fakes and now we’ve got a luxury brand doing the exact same thing. So just because the Peshawari sandal doesn't belong to any one brand, does it then become a free-for-all for designer brands lacking creativity, to re-appropriate something for themselves?
While this might not be cultural appropriation per se, it was appreciation done wrong.
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