Like a Maharajah | Jeetinder Sandhu
Whenever someone makes the mere mention of ‘indian’ and 'designer’ in a sentence, without doubt, others would expect 'sari’ or 'embroidery’ to ensue at some point of the conversation. Not that, we’re not proud of our critically acclaimed prowess in the field of the traditional garb but there needs to be more attention on what else Indian designers are capable of.
Which is precisely why I’m absolutely torn with the renowned designer, Sabyasachi - he has amazing eye for craftsmanship but simply refuses to progress in design (just bring to mind actress Vidya Balan’s look for Cannes). Ultimately staying stuck in time and proudly lauding that over everyone else who wants to embrace the modern. And…that will be for another post.
Jeetinder Sandhu, a native of India moved to London to pursue a BA in fashion design at Instituto Marangoni and showcased his graduate collection at the recent Graduate Fashion Week (GFW). Fashion design was an 'instant calling’ for Jeetinder as he grew up being exceptionally privy to details.
When an Indian (native) designer ventures overseas, almost instantly you’d expect an India inspired collection - some do it seamlessly well, others become too literal. Jeetinder took a more homogeneous approach and integrated the colours and prints reminiscent of India into a collection of suits with a rhapsodic range of innovative cuts and prints. Together, the collection is a portrayal of a strong, leonine man embracing the vibrance of being - like a maharajah (king)
Like Heliogabalus’s guests, maharajahs were smothered in the most expensive of jewels and the most exquisite of fabrics, not only lavishing in excess but were celebrated for their bravery and pride in the regions they ruled over. It may have been a thin line to balance upon but taking that as inspiration, Jeetinder revealed a vivid representation of a contemporary maharajah.
As the models marched down the runway, you’d notice the majestic elephant print taking centerstage. These strong Indian elephants were vital in gaining victories during war time and have been revered by the Indian culture since then, even Alexander the Great feared them.
The models with tattoos added a nice edgy touch to the overall look, bringing home the idea of a badass maharajah.
Playing with shades and altering the patterns within the elephant resulted in various seamless incorporation of the elephant into suits, coats and a bag range done in collaboration with Jas M.B. Hand-tied turbans in matching shades and jewelry from India further accentuated Jeetinder’s vision of a modern decadent man.
GFW's plethora of designers were an alarming indication of the number of hopeful fashion graduates yearning to enter Fashion’s ivory tower. The over saturation of designers then demands a keen distinguishing feature between each and every designer and Jeetinder is clear as crystal on that note.
We can only wait with bated breath to witness Jeetinder’s next foray in fashion - will it be more Indian inspirations or will there be increasing sprinklings of London’s sensibilities? For now, all I know is that I need to get my sticky hands on a doctor bag with the elephant print. Somehow.
Jeetinder Sandhu
www.jeetindersandhu.com/
Also read how Sikh men are influencing Western designers.
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