Squeeze of lime

Island lunch near Paraty

That Paraty is an essential tourist stop, with its old-world charm and impossible cobble stones, everybody knows. But the scattering of restaurants throughout Paraty’s bay, once the shipping route for gold coming down from Minas Gerais, is perhaps a lesser-known delight. 

Equipped with a boat and at least 4 hours, one essential stop is at Hiltinho on the island Ilha do Algodão. Pull up in front of the restaurant and wait for a little boat to come and fetch you. Then it’s an uphill climb into the forest to settle into a table in the restaurant’s garden, looking out over the bay. 

I am usually vexed by people who always order the same thing every time they go back to a restaurant. But really, it’s the only way to go here - dive straight into the moqueca especial, a steaming hot clay pot filled with robalo, meaty prawns, squid rings and mussels in a tomato, coriander and dendê (palm oil) sauce.

Essential sides include rice, beans, pirão (which often gets translated as fish porridge, which is a long way from doing the thick manioc paste justice), and perhaps some fried manioc and a palm heart salad if you’re a group of 5 or more. Round it off with a cheeky cachaçinha and then you’ll be well set for a siesta. 

Hiltinho, (024) 3371 1488, hiltinho.com.br/ilha.htm