Highlight Reel

“It might’ve been the morning coffee, or the fact that my whole life is all strapped to my bicycle, but I was feeling all kinds of jittery for the ride-out from Cambridge.” -- Jitters (Cambridge, MA)

“He gave me a hug, said ‘Welcome home’, and showed me to my private tree fort.” -- Hostel in the Forest (Brunswick, GA)

“It turns out, Louis-Marc is the owner of a hostel right downtown. It’s called ‘The Cube’.” -- The Cube (Revelstoke, BC)

“The first person I met was named Poet. He and his wife (Hippie Chick) are Shaw’s owners. He said, ‘Welcome,’ and handed me a PBR.” -- Hikers! (Monson, ME)

“The DJ kept saying there would be a Grammy-nominated artist performing. There was no Grammy-nominated artist.” -- Humans of Wynwood (Miami, FL)

“Riding along Route 1 feels like you’re actually tracing the outline of the continent.” -- Big Sur (Big Sur, CA)

“This day’s ride could be a contender for the most scenic.” Santa Barbara (Santa Barbara, CA)

“I set up my tent right at the top.” -- Bald Rock Mountain (Lincolnville, ME)

“Welcome to Saskatchewan: Land of Living Skies” -- Living Skies (Piapot, SK)

“I told them I was interested in the Hudson’s Bay archives, and Hannah told me that it’s her specialty. If I wanted, she could give me a brief tour.” -- Hudson’s Bay Company (Winnipeg, MB)

“For the past three states, I’ve felt the difference almost immediately. And I think it’s because of a change in symbols.” -- Symbols (Las Cruces, NM)

“I guess it’s kinda true what they say: ‘Florida is a weird state, man.’” -- The Concerned Citizens of Gibsonton (Gibsonton FL)

[Cab dispatcher]: “Tell them you lost a small suitcase, with your mama’s jewels in it. Tell them you lost all your gold. Try to cry a little. It’ll help.” -- Chicago (Chicago, IL)

“We exchanged contact information, and just like that – the hodgepodge group of cyclists going south got a little bit bigger.” -- Social Networking (Myrtle Beach, SC)

“It’s a tradition to hang out on the trading post porch and watch the sunset over the Chisos, and we made it just in time.” -- Big Bend (Terlingua, TX)

“When the guys checked with the Fire Chief, he said, ‘What are you, crazy? Let him have the extra bed!’” -- Hardeeville Fire Department (Hardeeville, SC)

“About an hour later, I was swigging some scotch and listening to records with Mike, his roommate Keith, and Keith’s girlfriend Jen.” -- LOMA Coffee (Wilmington, DE)

[Scot]: “They are the most efficient form of transportation ever invented. They’re completely free. You propel yourself with the food you eat.” -- Interview: Scot Benton (Tallahassee, FL)

“Over 4,000 riders followed Lys’s route from Williamsburg, VA to Astoria, OR – and the bicycle touring movement was born.” -- Bikecentennial (Port Angeles, WA)

“Franny was floating in mid-air. And moving. Up. And away.” -- 10,000 Miles (Assumption, OH)

“Once I was all set up, all three of the neighbors came by bearing gifts.” -- Welcome to Reedsburg (Reedsburg, WI)

“Louisianians are really, really nice.” -- Friends on the Mississippi (St. Francisville, LA)

“Blane actually showed up with some BBQ, some of their homemade sauce, a coozie, and a trucker hat.” -- Last Day in Austin (Austin, TX)

“He said, ‘I’m the governor. Come on up!’” -- Governor (Olympia, WA)

[Greg]: “These are the kindnesses that keep me going when the going gets tough. If Langtry has show me anything, it’s how a committed group of folks can make a harsh place livable, and how charity wins out over despair.” -- Trailer (Langtry, TX)

“The loop must be completed.” -- Answers! (La Crosse, WI)

----

Also: the mountains, the redwoods, the beaches, the tailwinds, the FOOD, the swimming, the freedom, the incredible support, the ups and downs of the Off-Season Project, the new tattoo, the late nights, the lonely stretches, the flat tires, the new friends and the heartbreak, the wrong turns, the surprises, the advice, the free haircuts, the border crossings, the tumbleweeds, the mileage guesses (it’s 11,447, you win Teresa!), the state of Washington, the province of Quebec, the horses, the cows, the dogs and cats and lost mules, the wild zebras and the one manatee, the breakfasts, the desserts, the anniversary champagne, the road magic, and the group of friends and family waiting for me when I finally finished the journey.

Gloucester, MA -- Cambridge, MA

The End.

Road Magic

Newburyport, MA -- Gloucester, MA

“SO WHY WOULD ANYONE DO IT? 

Simple: magic.”

-- Inside the mind of an Appalachian Trail hiker, Kristi Fondren

Appalachian Trail hikers have a way to refer to the kindnesses they receive along their journey. It’s called “trail magic”.

From the Boston Globe:

“Trail magic is ‘known and spoken of with reverence,’ according to Bill Bryson. The phenomenon, he writes, ‘holds that often when things look darkest some little piece of serendipity comes along to put you back on a heavenly plane.’ More often than not, trail magic comes when it’s least expected and most needed. It can be many things, including but not limited to a kind word from a stranger, a ride to one of the many towns that dot the route, the finding of a lost item, or an elaborate food spread...

I started my second-to-last day on Plum Island Beach with Matt -- my final Warmshowers host -- who treated me to breakfast before my ride to Gloucester.

I ended the day on Magnolia Beach with my Aunt Laurie. 

She’s the aunt who sent me on a kayaking trip in Key West, and the one who PayPal’d money to me and my cousin Chaz in Austin. She’s been a major supporter along the way, and she wouldn’t let me leave Gloucester without her BLT pasta for dinner.

So my last day away from home, then, was perfectly book-ended by examples of “road magic.” The kind of magic that has been so constant, and SO crucial to this whole trip.

(If I blogged about every single instance of kindness along the way, this blog would be nothing but a list. A long, long list.)

Aunt Laurie confirmed something for me, about the motivation behind these acts of kindness. For one thing, it’s not all about me. (!)

The hosts and supporters get something out of it, too. They get to become a part of the journey themselves.

From Cheryl Strayed, the author of Wild:

“It was very interesting to experience this endless kindness. When people understand that you are on this wilderness journey, people are so excited about that. Even people who would never want to do it themselves. They kind of want to live it vicariously through you.”

It’s one of my biggest lessons from this trip, and one that I’ll try to take forward: When we help each other out, we all become part of the same story.

Or, as Jack Kerouac would say:

“Practice kindness all day to everybody, and you will realize you're already in heaven now.”

----

Boston tomorrow.

States & Provinces

Ogunquit, ME -- Newburyport, MA

The final count of nights I’ve spent in each state/province:

Bean There, Done That

Portland, ME -- Ogunquit, ME

It’s official. I’ve seen every coffee pun that America has to offer. Time to finish this thing up.

Portland (Maine)

Portland, ME

Drive-By Donut

Wiscasset, ME -- Portland, ME

It's a nice way to start the day, when two friends drive by and shout, "Want a donut?!"

Favorites

Camden Hills State Park, ME -- Wiscasset, ME

In Rockland, I met up with my friends Jared and Ian from Boston. They treated me to breakfast, and filled me in on their past year. Apparently, Boston had a bad winter!

They also asked me one of the most common questions I get: “What was your favorite place?”

It’s nearly impossible to answer truthfully, and I tend to give different answers when asked. 

With the end of the trip coming up, though, I’m curious: do my blog followers have any favorites? 

Some of my favorite posts are Humans of Wynwood, The Concerned Citizens of Gibsonton, Big Sur, and Hudson’s Bay Company.

What are yours? Let me know in the comments, or by email at packpedal@gmail.com.

Bald Rock Mountain

Verona Island, ME -- Camden Hills State Park, ME

I planned on camping at the state park campground last night, but when I arrived, it was full.

(Saturday, Labor Day weekend, no surprise.)

A park employee told me that if I hiked to the top of Bald Rock Mountain instead, I could set up camp there for free. At the top, there would be great views of Penobscot Bay.

I decided to bike over and give it a shot.

I left Franny at the trailhead, and hiked up with my camping gear, sleeping bag, my “Important Things” pannier, and some food and water.

The view was amazing.

I set up my tent right at the top.

The forecast was all clear, so no rainfly needed.

I fell asleep under a clear, starry sky, with a view of the Milky Way.

(Not pictured...)

And woke up to a sunrise over the Atlantic.

Definitely one of the coolest places I’ve camped!

Home Stretch

Acadia National Park, ME -- Verona Island, ME

Daimon, don’t be mad!

I’m officially heading south now, with one week to go until I arrive in Boston. 

(I’ll visit Quoddy Head during my next trip, when I bike around Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, and Gaspesie. Wanna come?)

Acadia

Acadia National Park, ME

The Atlantic

Bangor, ME -- Acadia National Park, ME

Maine

Monson, ME -- Bangor, ME

Taking a second to be grateful for the past 11 months. I mean, WOW.

Hikers!

Jackman, ME -- Monson, ME

After about 60 miles of empty Maine roads, I crossed paths with the Appalachian Trail.

The AT stretches 2,200 miles from Georgia to Maine, and Monson is its last point of civilization. North of Monson is the “100-mile wilderness”, on the way to the trail’s northern end.

Consequently, Monson is home to the most-frequented hiker hostel along the whole trail. It’s named Shaw’s, and I decided to crash there for the night.

I wasn’t sure what to expect. What are AT hikers like? Would I be shunned? Would anyone even be there?

The first person I met was named Poet. He and his wife (Hippie Chick) are Shaw’s owners. He said, “Welcome,” and handed me a PBR.

----

Poet and Hippie Chick hiked the AT back in 2008. They were northbound hikers, taking the trail from Springer Mountain in Georgia all the way to Mount Katahdin in northern Maine. Along the way, they summited countless peaks, met a bunch of new friends, and stayed in hiker hostels all along the route -- including the historic Shaw’s hostel in Monson.

At the time, it was run by it’s original owners, who had been operating it since the 1970s.

When the hostel went on sale in 2014, it didn’t take long for them to make the decision to buy it. That would be their new life -- running the hostel in spring and summer, leaving time to travel during the late fall and winter.

“It’s a lot of work,” Hippie Chick told me. “There are people here all day, every day. But we love it.”

Reading through the hiker log of the past year, you can see how much this hostel means to people.

“Awesome place, so glad to have stayed here, and now I’m onto the final leg of this journey! It’s crazy to think it’s almost over.”

“Great place to zero. I got new shoes today and will summit Katahdin in 6 more days.”

“Thanks for an amazing place to stay! Comfy bed and awesome breakfast... time to dominate the 100 miles.”

“We started off hard, but found our way in the end. I think I can speak for everyone when I say this is one of the most trying and meaningful experiences of our lives. May the trail and Shaw’s live on forever.”

“Oh!! What memories came flooding into my brain when I entered this dwelling. Was here with the original owners (Keith & Pat Shaw) back in the ‘70s. It was great then and it’s great now. Good luck Poet & Hippie Chick, please keep Shaw’s the monumental place it’s always been.”

----

If you haven’t guessed, Poet and Hippie Chick aren’t the owner’s real names. They’re trail names -- a hiker tradition that always makes me jealous.

Here are some more trail names, pulled from the 2014 Hiker Yearbook:

Acorn, Bagheera, Cactus, Dos Equis, Energizer, Fuji, Giggles, Hashtag, Juke Box, Kevin Bacon, Laundryman, Moses, Neon, Oops, Pig Pen, Ramblin’ Rose, Siesta, Too Long, Uncle Walt, Vitamin C, Whiz, Yellow Beard

----

And I met a bunch of hikers here, too: Highlighter, City Kick, Sensodyne, Timber, Atlas, and Skydiver, to name a few. They were all intrigued by my bike, and my trip, and couldn’t be friendlier.

I shared a few stories from the road, and heard about what it’s like to hike the AT.

One hiker started last year, only to have to stop after a tree fell on her hammock, leaving her with a bleeding head wound. She’s finishing up the hike this year.

Another hiker earned his trail name -- Sensodyne -- after accidentally putting toothpaste on his face instead of sunscreen.

The hikers have many traditions, some surprisingly too risque for this blog.

The next morning, I enjoyed some breakfast with the hikers, before hitting the road toward Bangor. It was great to get a peek (ha) into AT life, and to be so welcomed into the community.

----

During breakfast, I let it slip that I used to work for the Appalachian Mountain Club. Poet asked if I know Chuck, who heads up the Accounting department in the Boston office. (I do.)

It turns out, Chuck hiked the AT in 2008, too. He hiked a big part of the trail with Poet and Hippie Chick, and they stayed in touch afterward. When the question of whether to buy Shaw’s came up, they asked his financial advice.

He ended up giving them the “go-ahead”.

Small world!

Welcome to Maine

Saint-Georges, QC -- Jackman, ME

Leaving Canada

Levis, QC -- Saint-Georges, QC

After leaving Quebec City, I ferried across the St. Lawrence to stay with Vincent, the owner of a beautiful country home just outside the city of Levis.

Even though Vincent’s English was limited, he convinced me to stay for an extra day to explore some towns on the southern shore of the St. Lawrence.

The next day, I biked along the Chaudiere River to the city of Saint-Georges.

My hosts in Saint-Georges are Jean-Philippe, his wife Marie-Pier, and their 3-month-old infant Noah.  They welcomed me in with open arms, showed me to the guest bedroom, and Jean-Philippe told me the story of his own trip from Quebec to Boston last year. 

(Jean-Philippe speaks English, Marie-Pier does not. He told me he learned -- in part -- by watching The Simpsons as a kid. He’s the second person I’ve heard that from.)

It’s my last day in Canada, and I have to say, the entire province of Quebec has exceeded my expectations. It’s been one of those rare places where every single person I’ve met has been incredibly hospitable, friendly, interesting, and positive. Even with the language barrier.

Plus, it’s extraordinarily beautiful. 

When I travel again -- sometime in the future -- I’ll come back to Quebec, see the Gaspesie Peninsula (that everyone says to see), and visit the Maritime Provinces.

But until then, it’s back to the U.S.

Maine -- state #30 -- tomorrow.

Guesses Update

Quebec City, QC -- Levis, QC

Current mileage: 10,969 miles. Here are the standings:

Paintings of Quebec

Quebec City, QC

Pierre Le Ber -- Sainte Marguerite Bourgeouys (1700)

Benjamin West -- The Death of General Wolfe (1770)

Robert Clow Todd -- Le Cône de glace de la chute Montmorency (1840)

Joseph Légaré -- The falls of the Chaudière River, Quebec (1840)

Joseph Légaré -- Québec vu de la Pointe De Lévy (1842)

Théophile Hamel -- Noémie, Eugénie, Antoinette et Séphora Hamel (1854)

Cornelius Kriegoff -- Mail Boat Crossing (1855)

Cornelius Krieghoff -- The Moccasin Seller (1860)

William Brymner -- Le Champ-de-Mars en hiver (1892)

Maurice Cullen -- The Cab Stand (1912)

Robert Pilot -- Quebec City, from Levis (1920)

Clarence Gagnon -- A Quebec Village Street, Winter (1920)

Marc-Aurèle Fortin -- Grand arbre à l'automne (1922)

Marc-Aurèle de Foy Suzor-Côté -- Jacques Cartier rencontre les Indiens à Stadaconé, 1535 (1923)

Adrien Hébert -- Le port de Montreal (1924)

Clarence Gagnon -- A Village in the Laurentians (1925)

Adrien Hébert -- Rue Sainte-Catherine (1926)

Adrien Hébert -- Saint-Denis Street (1927)

Prudence Heward -- Sisters of Rural Quebec (1930)

Marc-Aurèle Fortin -- Voie ferrée à Hochelaga (1931)

Jean Palardy -- Les foins à Saint-Urbain (1937)

Lilias Torrance Newton -- Dame en noir (1939)

André Biéler -- Gatineau Madonna (1940)

Marc-Aurèle Fortin -- Paysage, Île d'Orléans (1940)

André Biéler -- Bieler la Tonte (1944)

Jean Paul Lemieux -- La Fête-Dieu à Québec (1944)

Marc-Aurèle Fortin -- Bagotville (1945)

Jean Paul Lemieux -- Les Urslines (1951)

Jean Paul Lemieux -- Le beau monde (1969)

Miyuki Tanobe -- Dimanche, rue Mentana (1974)

Miyuki Tanobe -- C'est pret, venez manger (1977)

Philip Surrey -- La Chaussee Mouillee (1981)

Miyuki Tanobe -- Festival de Jazz, Montreal (1982)