Let's Learn About Sewing Needles
WHAT ARE THE NUMBERS ON THE PACKAGES?
The first, larger number is the metric sizing and refers to the diameter of the shaft of the needle. So a size ’80’ is 0.8mm. The second smaller number i.e. 12 is the old imperial measurement. What’s easy to remember is that the bigger the number, the bigger the needle.
WHAT DO THE NAMES MEAN?
The names refer to the fabric they are made for and the tip that needle has.
Universal-These have a slightly rounded tip and are the go-to choice for many sewing projects using woven fabric (e.g. dressmaking, soft furnishing and crafts).They come in a wide range of sizes from NM 60/8 to NM 130/21. This needle is also the standard fit in modern overlockers. Needle system: 130/705 H or sometimes HAx1
Super Universal-Super-universal needles have a particularly smooth, non-stick coating that significantly reduces adhesive build-up. It also has an enlarged eye which is the equivalent to that of a needle two sizes larger. This reduces thread abrasion so this is a good embroidery needle too. The slightly rounded point shape is suitable for most fabric types whilst the reinforced blade penetrates thick fabrics like denim easily. Needle system: 130/705 H-SU
Ballpoint/jersey- They gently push aside the fibers instead of punching their way through, which prevents holes forming in the fabric, and skipped stitches. Needle system: 130/705 H-SUK
Stretch-Stretch needles are often confused with ballpoint, but they are a different needle and perform a distinct function. Use these for sewing elastic or fabrics containing a high degree of elastic e.g. swimwear. They have a medium ballpoint tip, a shorter eye, and a flatter shank. This allows the needle to be closer to the bobbin hook, preventing skipped stitches. Needle system: 130/705 H-S
Super Stretch-These needles have been developed for easy sewing of highly-elastic fabrics. The flat shank allows the needle to be closer to the bobbin hook. There’s also a special scarf design allowing a larger thread loop, which is more likely to be picked up by the hook. A reinforced shaft reduces likelihood of breakage and allows a straight stitch whilst the chrome coating, instead of nickel is more resistant to abrasion. Needle system: HAx1 SP
Microtex-A very slim, sharp point gives good results when sewing fine or densely woven fabrics such as microfiber, silk, polyester and taffeta lining. Perfect straight stitches are achieved during topstitching. Needle system: 130/705 H-M
Quilting-These have a special taper to their slight-rounded point for easier penetration of fabric layers and eliminate skipped stitches. Needle system: 130/705 H-Q
Jeans-A medium ballpoint tip displaces the fabric for less stress during fabric penetration whilst a reinforced blades copes with heavy fabrics such as canvas, denim and twill. Needle system: 130/705 H-J
Topstitch-A long eye of 2mm allows thicker thread to pass unhindered reducing skipped stitched and thread abrasion. A slightly rounded point is suitable for most woven fabrics. Needle system: 130 N
Leather-For sewing leather, and hard faux leather/vinyl. This needle has a flat ‘chisel’-shaped tip which cuts a tiny slit instead of making a hole. This prevents the fabric tearing. These needles must not be used on woven or knit fabrics, they will cut any woven or knits.
There is a common myth that Singer brand are 1mm longer but that's not true. The length of all sewing machine needles has been standardized.
Singer uses a non-standardized numbering system on the packaging that can make it seem like they are larger, but you can measure them to see that they are the same length. I have so many issues with singer and i never recommend their products because they slap the singer logo on super cheaply made shit constantly (like the pins that have no points on them, the thread that is dry rotted but its "new", the sewing machines that are trash, the unrepaired returns that they resell).
How often should I change my needles?
After every sewing project (or about 6-8 hours of sewing). No matter the effort you’ve put in to choose the best needle for your project, you won’t get good results if it’s blunt. Also, if you hit a pin, then check your needle for a bent tip. If you feel any rough edges or burrs, then change it to avoid fabric damage and/or stitching problems.
