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Forward Unto Dawn

@feralmango / feralmango.tumblr.com

A personal blog.
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Amber's Beginner's Guide to Sewing Cosplay

One of the best feelings in cosplay is the feeling of accomplishment when you finish making a costume from scratch. It is also one of most frustrating things to accomplish in cosplay. Our local sewing specialist will give a rundown of the process of sewing.

Picking fabrics:

Unless you are going for absolute accuracy, go with a fabric that you know you can work with rather than ridiculous fabric you think matches the character better but will be difficult to work with. Fabrics such as satin are a pain, try to avoid using these fabrics. At the same time, if you are planning to enter a competition, keep in mind that most judges care more about the work you’ve put into a costume rather than how accurate it looks.

Patterns:

Patterns are incredibly helpful when it comes to making costumes. Simplicity has a wide range of patterns to choose from, including Halloween costume patterns, in all kinds of shapes and sizes. Even if you are making a costume that doesn’t match a pattern completely, there is enough freedom to change a pattern to match your costume design. Make sure you have the right size pattern for you body, as I have had to alter a top quite a bit because I realized too late that I bought the wrong size pattern. Patterns can get expensive, so unless you have no idea how to go about starting your costume or are brand new to sewing, it is better to draft your own pattern.

Drafting your own:

Making your own patterns can be very easy. Make use of your current wardrobe to trace out patterns on paper (keeping in mind stretch and seam allowance). Always have a paper handy for patterns before cutting into your fabric. It would be terrible to have the wrong size, shape, etc. and have to toss the fabric you bought because of it.

Cutting the fabric:

Once you have your pattern, it’s time to cut the fabric. If you drafted your own, make sure you have seam allowance either included in your pattern or leave some extra space as you cut around the pattern. You don’t want your costume too tight. Pinning a pattern to the fabric works well, but sometimes this can rip it. I use chalk to outline my patterns so that I can save the pattern for another time (or if I screw up the first time ^^;). I use a similar color to the fabric, just enough difference that I can see the lines. Use fabric scissors on fabric. And ONLY fabric! Paper will dull the scissors and make cutting your fabric a nightmare, so spend a little extra money on a pair of fabric scissors if you do not already have one. If you buy a pattern, there will be little triangles in the pattern. Cut a mirror image of it on the fabric (so that you are not cutting into your seam allowance) as these triangles are in the pattern to help you line up the pieces of your costume when you go to sew.

Sewing machines:

Your first step when it comes to sewing machines is to read the manuel. Most of your questions and concerns can be answered in this little booklet. If you are still having issues with simple sewing machine usage, places such as JoAnn’s offer lessons on how to use your sewing machine. If all else fails, youtube is actually a good place to find help. Some learn better by example rather than reading, so videos on processes like winding your bobbin are a great help. Make sure you know what kind of bobbins your machine can use (my Brother can only use plastic bobbins).

Hand sewing:

There are some items that just require hand sewing. Hand sewing may also be necessary if you don’t have a sewing machine but want to make your costume (duh ^^). It’s a long process and requires a few breaks for your poor fingers, but there is a greater sense of accomplishment when you finish hand sewing an entire costume. My red bag for Lightning Farron is completely hand sewn as well as my entire Miki Hoshii cosplay. Thimbles are your best friend when it comes to hand sewing, especially if you have thicker fabric. Check out this lovely person’s example of the following stitches (thanks taeliac!).

  • Running stitches are the most commonly used stitches when making a seam. The easiest way to do a running stitch is to run the needle through the fabric up and down
  • Back stitches are important for running stitches as they anchor the running stitches in place so your fabric doesn’t pucker. Every few running stitches, insert the needle a little back behind the last stitch you made and continue doing a running stitch. Once again, this works as an anchor.
  • Whip stitches are used on the edges of your fabric to help with fraying. Just make sure the thread goes around the edge of the fabric. Use this same stitch when doing applique.

Sewing Process Tips:

Make sure you know what the right and wrong sides of your fabric are. The right side is what you want everyone to see when you put on the cosplay. The wrong side is what will be on the inside. When sewing, your wrong sides should always be out so you have a nice, clean seam when you turn it inside-out to show the right side. Pins should go perpendicular to the seam you are sewing so that they can be easily removed as you sew. And if you are using a sewing machine for the first time, TAKE IT SLOW! Your thread might tangle, your fabric may stick into the feed, you could run over a pin, or even run over your finger if you are not careful. As you become more confident in using your machine, then start to speed up. I learned this the hard way. Also, you may have to rethread your machine a few times while working on a project.

Hemming and Fraying:

Hems finish off your piece to give a nice clean look and also prevent fraying, so please hem your costumes. Fraying can be a pain, but there are ways to fight fraying. Keimi turns in the ends once before actually hemming her ends, almost like hemming twice. This way, the already fraying ends are not exposed to anything that could snag and cause more fraying. Fray Check (I believe it’s called) is supposed to help stop fraying, I’ve never used it as I have either opted for Keimi’s technique or clear fingernail polish (plus I haven’t looked long enough to find it apparently ^^;). You just need a little bit on the ends.

Applique and Paint:

Some cosplays require applique of some sort, designs that are sewn to the surface of the costume after you have constructed it. My Gun Mage Lenne is a wonderful example of this. I used felt for the designs and used both a running stitch and a whip stitch (see above for an explanation of these) to secure them to the top. Smaller applique will require hand-sewing (as Lenne did), but larger applique can be attached using your sewing machine. My Brother has some settings specifically for applique, so check your user manual for these settings. Biased tape is great as well! Buy some to attach to your cosplay (as I did with Lenne), or make your own to add some detail (as I did with Lightning).

Some designs require painting rather than fabric. Slathering on a bunch of acrylic paint will not get the job done, instead it will peel. Using a wet-brush technique, take a little bit of acrylic paint and a whole lot of water. It will take a long time, but it is worth the wait. I used this on my sister’s Yuna skirt and VDR Cosplay’s Maokai vine arm. Sometimes a dry-brush technique is required too. Dry-brushing requires just a little bit of paint. Brush excess paint off onto a paper towel or plate before applying to your fabric. Use this for small portions you want to be more vibrant. This was also used on the Maokai vine arm. Always practice on a scrap piece before applying to your costume!! I would hate for you to dislike the paint job you did on a fantastically constructed cosplay!!

Fasteners:

One of the most important parts of the costume. Otherwise, how are you going to get into that thing??? There are all kinds of fasteners, some more appropriate for a particular cosplay than others. My Lightning jacket fasteners are far more appropriate than a snap or hook-and-eye, harder to find but much more appropriate. Try to find ways to hide your fasteners if they are not seen according to the reference. Zippers are fantasic things, especially invisible zippers. Sewing machines come with a specific foot for these, and I highly recommend using this foot. Otherwise, you can certainly hand-sew your zippers, but be sure to secure it tightly. This goes for all fasteners. If these fall off, you might have an embarrassing convention experience. Some cosplays seem impossible to take on or off. Find a creative way to get in and out of your cosplay. This will earn you points with judges as well. VDR’s Maokai has a panel in the front that was removable and stayed in place using velcro and the belt that wraps around the torso. My Lenne cosplay wraps around my body and snaps at the sides, the collar staying at my neck using a hook-and-eye. Never underestimate grommets and male-female screws. My Lightning pauldron attaches to the jacket using these, and it looks fantastic! I also used these to secure the belts to my boots. Sometimes super glue just doesn’t cut it.

Finally, the Props:

As this is a sewing tutorial, I won’t go into prop making here. But sometimes it’s the props that makes or breaks a cosplay. Props are iconic, they give you something to work with when posing, and if done well, can earn you major points in competitions. Beginning cosplayers, don’t be afraid to make a prop, but also don’t be afraid to forgo making one. My Liz Thompson cosplay went over very well without a jacket or hat… or even a Patty or Death the Kid.

And that’s it, you’re all done! Revel in your cosplaying ability and rock those competition stages! Enjoy all the photos and awards, you deserve them! And above all, have fun, dang it. Otherwise all this work was for nothing. Amber out~!

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osointricate

Tips for living alone

Buy a bat (I have my old color guard rifle) or similar. Keep it in your room/near your bed.

Get a lock for your bedroom door.

If you’re moving into a new place, change the locks. Who knows who had a key to your place before you.

Keep your phone/a phone in your room.

Get a weather alert system set up. App, weather call, little weather radio that tells you about major weather events.

Adopt a pet

Wave at your neighbors. Take note of the ones that make you uneasy. Watch out for kids always.

Be nice to your mail person. No matter what.

If you choose to drink/etc alone, unplug your wifi router. You’ll thank me.

Have extra seating. People sit when they visit. Your one comfy chair is great for you. Not so great for you + grandma + ur five cousins, your aunt, and a couple others.

Learn the self-Heimlich

When you take a shower, bring your phone to the bathroom in case you fall your phone is no longer halfway across the house, it’s just on your counter

Uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Idk what else

If you live in an one-room apartment, put a screen around your bed. It’ll feel less like you visit people, esp. strangers, into your bedroom. Also you’ll feel much safer sleeping in the enclosure. Cook enough for a few meals each time you cook, and freeze the extra food. That way you’ll prevent things from expiring and it’s great when you don’t feel like cooking or have no time or energy for it.

Give a key to someone near you trust, or hid it somewhere few people will look, like up in a tree. Shutting yourself out isn’t nice, esp. not at night. Put something translucent like curtains or stickers for windows where people can walk past or look in. You’ll feel less watched that way.

Put some contant money somewhere in your room. Good to have in case your bag gets lost or stolen. 

Feeling lonely? Remember, online contacts are not less valuable.

I would say maybe set reminders for everything too. Taking meds/vitamins, working out, going to sleep, waking up.

Buy a small fan for white noise at night if you’re the kind (like me) that gets anxious at all the little ambient noises that ANY building can supply in the dark. Don’t watch scary movies in the dark by yourself, with no visitors. NETFLIX, if you can afford it. It’s also useful because you can watch movies / shows with your online buddies at the same time, miles and states and (sometimes even) countries apart.

get an app like safetrek. never walk into allies or empty streets if there is a more populated/well-lit route to your destination. keep emergency contacts in your wallet and a red cross card with your blood type on it in case anything happens. carry a list of medications you’re allergic to, if any. 

walking around with a headset or headphones discourages people from yelling at you on the street, and it’s easier to escape from hasslers. however, it’s pretty advisable to not have anything actually playing so you can be aware of your surroundings. if anything, have it at low volume.

if you get grabbed on the street (this used to happen to me a lot), immediately scream, and the person will usually get startled, giving you time to get away. 

if you feel like you’re in a really bad place, call someone, or even pretend like you’re calling someone. say where you are. act like you’re planning on meeting up with them. be loud about it. make it seem like someone will notice if you go missing, even for a little bit.

also u should look up manufacturer’s coupons like damn i feel like a successful suburban mom every time i walk into cvs and save 2 dollars on my toothbrushes

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mizoreame00

超会議で吉田Pが機工士ッテだったので、メスッテの機工士ってどんなのかな~というやつ。ついでに3.0実装予定の新髪型のみつあみで。

Machinist+Miqo’te and new hair style :3

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The gracefulness and elegance of monolid eyes

this makes me feel so alive

monolid people of color are truly a blessing in this world

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cave-of-bear

You know how Nozomi decided to befriend Eri because she thought that they were similar? 

  • Nozomi was isolated and unable to make friends in elementary school because she moved a lot.
  • Eri might have been isolated/rejected by her peers in elementary school for being too good at everything. 
  • Nozomi isolated herself from people during middle school because she was afraid of being hurt by the separation.
  • Eri isolated herself during middle school to avoid the pain of rejection caused by involuntarily being left out of the group.
  • Nozomi was finally able to make friends in high school because she stopped moving around.
  • Eri was finally able to make friends in high school because, after Nozomi reached out to her, the others stopped putting her on a pedestal.

Nozomi was strong enough to change her own fate and reach out to people on her own, once she had found a place to call home, but Eri needed Nozomi to be her strength, and in return, Eri would be the home that Nozomi can always return to.

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tsunglasses

The Love Live producers have some serious explaining to do before all the horrible bestiality porn starts showing up.

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hachitora

Wait, I just realized Nico might actually have been dreaming that scene of Maki about to kiss her in the car, and then wakes up to this instead

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