STEEL VALLEY - Braddock, Pennsylvania
Braddock, an industrial borough incorporated in 1867 and named for General Braddock. The greater part of the slaughter of Braddock’s troops occurred near what is now Jones and Bell Avenues. The community’s importance as a coal center attracted steel and iron manufacturers in the early 1870′s. Development was stimulated by the introduction and perfecting of the Bessemer process at the Carnegie mills here. Today the steel works, several machinery factories, and a wall plaster factory support the townspeople. -Pennsylvania, A Guide to The Keystone State (WPA, 1940)
Braddock is the last city in the “Steel Valley” that has a working steel mill. It is also the poorest city in Allegheny County. With a median household income of just above $20,000, Braddock barely floats above the poverty line. Unemployment is not much higher than the national average; it’s no greater than 7%. So why is Braddock so poor? If most people have jobs, what kind of jobs do people that live here have? Why are there so few businesses on Braddock Ave? Why does U.S. Steel not work to try to improve the area surrounding its mill? Why is nobody stepping forward to lead this city out of its desperate situation?
As to the question of why Braddock is so poor, I can only guess that it must be because of classic urban decline principles: whites with jobs (and union benefits) left, and the only people that didn’t leave were those that couldn’t afford to leave, that is, mostly poor blacks (although the city of Braddock does still contain an unusually large white population; 22% white according to the 2010 U.S. Census). When the high-paying steel jobs left, the businesses that lined the town’s streets began to disappear. With less people to spend money, businesses naturally struggled and eventually they had to go, too. But even so, the neighboring town of Homestead has its fair share of businesses. Although not the healthiest set of businesses to have in a downtown - liquor stores, delis, smoke shops, and dollar stores - Homestead still has some semblance of commercial activity. Braddock, on the other hand, has none.
It’s an odd transition riding through the steel valley. Starting in Pittsburgh, the old hot metal bridge leading to the Southside works has been converted for bike, pedestrian, and vehicular use. The Southside Works site, a massive brownfield that plagued the city for years, has been re-purposed as a mixed-use shopping, living, and dining neighborhood, all done up suburban style with cheap stucco designs and big boxes, yet set in a decidedly urban environment - walkable, with minimal parking lots to destroy the pedestrian experience. Continuing from Southside Works, past the new Steelers training facilities and the medical research buildings, one eventually ends up in Homestead. After a long ride down a nature trail, the first thing to be seen is Sandcastle waterpark. Sandcastle does quite well in the hot summer months, but cannot compete with the Pittsburgh classic, Kennywood amusement park that sits on a bluff only a bit past Homestead. After the waterpark comes The Waterfront, a large big box retail complex that occupies the former U.S. Steel Homestead Works site. The only reminders of the Homestead Works, besides a few sheds at the east end of the site, are twelve smokestacks lined up next to each other at the beginning of The Waterfront. The Waterfront is a dauntingly large complex, and with its sea of parking lots, and difficult entry from the city of Homestead, it has been much criticized. In fact, it was built about five years before the Southside Works, and was used as a model of what not to do with the Southside Works site.
As one rides through the steel valley going west to east, one travels back in time. First, the most recent brownfield development, designed with principles of good urbanism in mind, then the large, sprawling, suburban shopping center, urbanistically uninteresting, yet at the same time, an important piece of the brownfield puzzle in the steel valley. After The Waterfront, Carrie Furnace stands tall and proud, as a beacon of the new interest that has emerged in preservation and sustainable development. Carrie Furnace, a still-intact blast furnace that once supplied the almighty Homestead Works with molten iron, is awaiting a new life as a museum of the steel industry, as well as a performing arts and light industrial facility. A mixture of uses quite unlike anything happening today.
Finally, there’s the Edgar Thomson Works. The last functioning integrated steelmaking facility in the Monongahela River Valley. Where once many mills churned out smoke night and day, seven days a week, now only one giant remains. The Edgar Thomson Works is an impressive factory, as all steel mills are. It takes up a massive swath of land almost as big as the entire city of Braddock, and what’s even more impressive is that it once employed enough people to fill the entire city and parts of the surrounding area. The Edgar Thomson Works today only employs about 900, most of whom live outside of Braddock, since they have relatively high-paying jobs that allow them to escape the miserable air quality and generally poor quality of life in Braddock.
U.S. Steel’s Edgar Thomson Works looms behind the houses in the hills of North Braddock in an ominous fashion. Day and night, the great behemoth billows smoke as train whistles blow, and the houses around the steel mill sit almost perpetually under artificially cloudy skies. It is no surprise that Allegheny County has one of the highest counts of poisonous Sulfur Dioxide in the state of Pennsylvania, more than 50% greater than the EPA’s recommendations of what is safe to inhale. As one walks through the area immediately surrounding the mill, a smell like rotten eggs penetrates the air and burns the throat.
Confronting the harsh truths of Braddock, PA, and other industrial enclaves of the United States is hard, and as someone interested in urban planning, I always ask myself, “what can we do about places like this to improve the quality of life for the residents and make things a little better?” And lucky for me, John Fedderman is already leading the way in answering that question for Braddock. By building a large community garden near the steel mill, restoring a local church and re-purposing it as a community center, and engaging in community-based job training and job-creation efforts, Fedderman has been one of the most progressive mayors in all of America, tackling massive issues on a small scale. John Fedderman has served as mayor of Braddock in 2005. After completing a master’s in Public Policy at Harvard, Fedderman moved to Braddock to do social work for AmeriCorps, and after several years in the town, decided to run for mayor, winning by a very small margin
Creative leadership like Mayor Fedderman’s is a crucial step to making Braddock a great city once again, and without his help, the town would be a few long steps behind its current position, which can be said to slowly be getting better. By building a new playground, converting an old church to a community center, and starting a community garden, Fedderman has helped provide several massive resources for the people of Braddock to use. While a playground and community center are good for a neighborhood for rather obvious reasons, a community garden helps in a number of ways, some more subtle than others. A community garden is not only a good way to provide fresh produce at reduced rates to citizens (especially when they live in a food desert like Braddock), but it is also a crucial grounds for job training. As a poor community with few businesses, young children and teens in Braddock have very few places where they can find jobs nearby, especially if they do not have cars. A community garden helps to fill a need for jobs that not only keep teens busy and off the street, but also jobs that can serve as crucial stepping stones into more serious employment.
This type of on-the-ground, hands-on community planning is an incredibly important first step to making Braddock a great place to live, and since it is clear that federal or state funding for projects such as these is not going to happen anytime soon, Fedderman has made the most with what he has: a lot of vacant land and very little money. Since Braddock is nowhere near building new housing (aside from one senior housing project), and cashing in on the property taxes that come with new construction, Braddock must make the best of its current situation. It is unlikely that things will dramatically improve anytime soon, and so for some time, Fedderman’s leadership in Braddock and the community-based planning and organization efforts there will continue to be the last leg the Braddock stands on. As it is, Braddock is an incredibly interesting town with plenty of potential to be something special, and with the way things are going now, it would seem like it is already on the way to becoming a special place again, but until then, there is still a long way to go in the process of turning Braddock around.
Northeast Guide Chris Giuliano is a photographer and student living in the NY/NJ/PA region. Traveling throughout these states, and often to other places as well, he is able to see and capture a wide variety of life, and hopes to portray the way he sees the world to other people through his photographs. Follow on his blog, cgiuliano.tumblr.com, and his website, chrisgiuliano.com.