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Listening to the live broadcast of this service is one of my favorite Christmas Eve traditions. Admittedly, it arouses the inner Fogey within and causes me to listen to American choirs with somewhat unfair expectations.

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No matter how often I return to The Young Fogey Handbook (1985), I always find something entertaining/interesting. Take this excerpt, for example: “He was wearing baggy cord trousers, serviceable tweed jacket, plain brown boots and an old spotted tie. Proper clothes. Never any need to change them.” - Stephen Pile, describing the late Duke of Beaufort, Sunday Times, April 1983

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Sartorial Easy Mode: The Navy Crewneck Sweater

               Christian Chensvold once described a woman that frequently passed by his NYC home. She wore only black and white and was the “chicest thing you’ve ever seen.” He added, “I don’t know what the male equivalent is of that casually chic way of dressing is (sic), but I’m still searching for it.” A worthy question.

I think the answer is simple: the navy crewneck sweater. In cool weather, no casual garment is easier or more flattering. Notice next time you see someone wearing one. Even if the fit is off, they still somehow look put together. An argument can be made for black or charcoal, but navy flatters more skin tones and is easier to pair.

Too boring? There are several textures, weights, fabrics, and cuts to keep things interesting. I would start with some surface interest, like a lambswool or shetland.  Add an OCBD and a pair of jeans or chinos and you have a combination that can hold its own or serve as a canvas for a tweed jacket or a field coat.

It may not be the answer to Christian’s question, but it does embody what my friend Mitch calls “Sartorial Easy Mode.”

Seconded.

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How about a few hours of snow before Spring? Good excuse to dress all fuzzy I guess. Brooks Makers OCBD, Harley Shetland sweater from Hunter & Coggins, John Hanly Buchanan scarf from Kevin & Howlin, Dublin, an old two-warrant Border, J. Press cords, Chupp socks, and LL Bean mocs.

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Old Harris Tweed from JAB, Brooks Brothers green Candy Stripes, J. Press Four Provinces, and Uniqlo extra-fine merino. This was my first Harris Tweed and is the oldest jacket still in the rotation. I no longer wear it as much as before, but it holds a special place, sort of like the Professor Emeritus of the Tweed Department. Now fully tenured, it has no worries of being unseated. Harris Tweed is simply something that will age well and always be serviceable as long as one stays in one’s coat size or thereabouts. It’s also one of the things I enjoy about this sort of clothing:  It is youthful clothing that one can mature into, lending a bit of gravity to youth and a bit of youth to maturity.

Well said.

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(HTJ Archives) Tartan Fun Shirts. Brooks Brothers began to offer tartan fun shirts around 1987 or so, made from Buchanan, Black Watch, Gordon, MacDonald, and Royal Stewart tartans. The construction of this version of the fun shirt was pretty much the same as the bold stripe version. This means that the linings of the collar, neck band, shoulder yoke, cuff plackets, and cuffs were all made with a contrasting tartan. A lot of work would have gone into these shirts and they remain the best of the lot. The four shirt photo (bottom to top) contains these: c.1987, c.1990, c.1993, and a Huntington version c.1990s. The first version (c.1987) of this shirt was probably made in the old Paterson, NJ factory, before it was closed and manufacturing contracted to outside vendors. On all of the Brooks Brothers versions, the collar and the front placket were made from the same tartan. Like a lot of good things, these aren’t available anymore, but they were perfect with a sweater, quiet herringbone tweed, or a blue flannel blazer.

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This morning, we continued our tradition of listening to the live broadcast of A Festival Of Nine Lessons And Carols from King's College, Cambridge. We'll cook beef tenderloin today and attend a candlelight service at church tonight. In many ways, I enjoy Christmas Eve more than Christmas Day.

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The choir sang "O Magnum Mysterium" today. It was chilly enough in the old chapel for wool and flannel, which meant an old LL Bean "Made in Great Britain" Fair Isle vest over an ecru Brooks BD, a Huntington thrice-patch-pocketed flannel 3/2 sack, O'Connell's (Hertling-made) 6-wale corduroy trousers in "Oxford Grey," and Alden snuff suede longwings. The cords are much darker than they appear in this photo. The sweater is as cozy as it appears.

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2016 Tan Cords Club. Once again it’s the season for Tan Cords. Many guys understand that when the weather gets cold, Tan Cords are a great alternative to khakis. Thank you to all this year’s club members who sent in photos. From top to bottom (left to right): getticketsforthedance; allegrabene; bluchermoc; glengarrysportingclub; mibelphelps; veganguy63-blog; runtmag1; to-the-manor-born; and two of the club’s august founding members, the-object-lesson and 80-g-2. Tumblr won’t allow more than ten images in a montage, so there are none of mine, and the absence of the red “Keep Calm and Wear Tan Cords” masthead will no doubt be lamented by many. 

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