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Rebels and Rogues

@rebelsandrogues / rebelsandrogues.tumblr.com

Inspiration, dogs and other cool shit.
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On Mourning and Radical Music

I was doing my usual morning routine of drinking iced coffee, smoking a cigarette, and checking Twitter on Wednesday when I received a real gut-punch: Shuhada' Sadaqat (better known by her stage name of Sinéad O’Connor) was dead at 56. A beautiful soul, long-time outspoken artist and activist, and an Irish treasure. It hit harder than I’d even realized it would.

Now, to be fair, I do not have an easy time dealing with death, of anything. I sometimes get choked up seeing a cat or dog on the side of the road that has, unfortunately, been hit by a vehicle. 

A good number of my personal heroes have, sadly, passed in the last 20+ years of adulthood. The first I was really affected by was Johnny Cash in 2003, but I immediately wondered why this one felt so personal. For the majority of that day I sat alone, revisiting her catalog and thinking about the reasons why. Then it dawned on me: she was one of the first musicians that truly made an impact on me from the very moment of exposure. 

I must’ve been 8 or 9, in the early 90s, long before the very small town of my upbringing got MTV or Much Music. Our local TV station aired popular new wave, alt-rock, etc videos from the 80s and very early 90s. I’d stay up on Fridays, at my maternal grandparents’ house, being exposed to the likes of Devo, the Lightning Seeds, the Pet Shop Boys, and Sinéad. 

I don’t exactly remember which video it was that I saw first, perhaps “Mandinka” or, most likely, “Nothing Compares 2 U”, but I distinctly remember being enthralled by something that was completely out of the ordinary and emotive, an experience I wouldn’t begin to even understand until I was much older. I was experiencing a *very* radical artist for the first time. 

Now, I’m very fortunate that, for the majority of my nearly 40 years on this spinning rock, I’ve constantly been surrounded by good music. My parents are two sides of the same coin. My dad was a 70s rocker. He loves Skynyrd, Zeppelin, Bob Seger (who he’s always reminded me of), the Who, etc. Hell, he followed ZZ Top around for a while in his late teens. My mom, she was more into singer-songwriters like Neil Young, Dan Fogelberg, and, her absolute teenage favorite, John Denver (whom she invited to her high school graduation, but that’s a story for another time). 

Needless to say, I had very early exposure to fantastic bands and musicians. 

Now, an older cousin and her then-boyfriend enter the conversation. They loved R.E.M. (who had filmed a video in my hometown, and had album art created by a local folk artist), 10,000 Maniacs, L7, and loads of 80s “College Rock”. Her boyfriend first played me the Ramones, Minor Threat, and Black Flag around age 10. None of which I really unpacked the impact of until I was in my late mid-late teens. Thinking back on it, this early exposure set me on a course of fierce independence and learning all I could about both the musicians I loved, but also the underpinnings of what made their art special.

I remember the infamous SNL episode where O’Connor ripped up a picture of Pope John Paul II. I was nearly 10 at the time, but didn’t understand what it meant until a couple of decades later. Yet, that influence percolated, subconsciously, for so long. 

Shortly after, I was exposed to the Cranberries, led by Dolores O’Riordan (another Irish treasure). I bought the cassette singles of “Linger” and “Dreams”. Then, “No Need to Argue” followed. I was immediately taken aback by it. “Zombie” is, of course, the best known song, but “Dreaming My Dreams”, “I Can’t Be With You”, “Ridiculous Thoughts”.  Honestly, every track resonated with 11 year old me. I spent much of 4th grade drawing what I saw in my head as scenes from the song “Zombie”. These days I would probably have faced VERY bad consequences for that, but this was 1994. When I got my first guitar at age 12, that was the first song I learned. 

In 5th grade a friend loaned me a cassette copy of the Crow soundtrack. Amidst making mix tapes of alt-rock songs off the radio, this was a turning point. Stone Temple Pilots’ “Big Empty” all but knocked me over the first time I heard it. And, as one does, I rewound and played it over and over and over. 

I distinctly remember sitting outside, waiting for my grandmother to pick me up from school, with my Walkman and headphones on. I listened to that tape and my mixes (which included Gin Blossoms, R.E.M., Hootie and the Blowfish, along with many others), thinking “I’m so much cooler than all of you”. 

This music was an escape. It was something that gave me life. It was something that made me feel different from everyone else stuck listening to the pop music of the era. It was special, it was my secret.

Middle school brought more discovery of punk rock (Green Day’s “Dookie”, Rancid’s “…And Out Come the Wolves”, and other typical mid-90s shit) along with ska. I was “technically” only allowed to listen to Christian music (goth bless my grandma, who didn’t give a shit one way or another, I was the favorite grandchild). This, in turn,  led me to discovering Five Iron Frenzy. 

They were a loosely “Christian” band that wrote songs about the removal of indigenous peoples because of manifest destiny, songs critiquing capitalism, songs about accepting people for who they were (there’s a song on a late 90s EP about the singer finding out Freddie Mercury was gay and working through it). I credit them, in retrospect, for a lot of my political and religious evolution (the band was full of communists, anarchists, and atheists). 

At this point in time, the underground music scenes were pretty mixed. Very vocal bands that held varying beliefs, all played together, supported each other, exposed small-town kids, like myself, to many points of view. I read liner notes like novels, taking in every word, researching (as best I could, this was before we had the internet at home) and trying to find the bands mentioned in the “thank you” section. I was seeking out more of this feeling that had captivated me at such an early age.

I’d spend the next, nearly, 20 years playing in bands, always chasing the same feeling that felt as special as those early days of my musical journey.

I am a consummate student of music, it was (and still is) my first, and biggest love. As time has rolled on, I’ve discovered so many artists that have made me feel like I’m engaged in a secret many do not know. 

In reality, that’s not at all the case. Many of these bands and musicians are widely revered, but none-the-less radical in context. From the blues of Sonhouse, to Sister Rosetta Tharpe, to Little Richard, to Link Wray, to the New York Dolls and the proto-punk of the 70s, to more modern bands like Pissed Jeans or Uniform or Soul Glo, it’s still my main love and fully has my heart. 

All of this to say, I’m so happy that Ms. O’Connor, in some way, played a part in this. That, at almost 40 years of age, these artists still keep me on my toes. They continue to bring me joy and comfort. I’m eternally grateful that the ones named (and the thousands I didn’t name) existed/continue to exist, in some way. I hope they continue to inspire and change the lives of other kids like me that find out about them and feel like they hold the secret to life. 

Rest in power to her and the other real heroes we’ve lost. Their impact will continue to be felt because of the art they created, and those who continue to be inspired by it.

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Brad from Pissed Jeans talks rigs. Big rigs.

Brad plays guitar for Pissed Jeans from Allentown, Pennsylvania. His tone is killer - he’s an awesome player and fully into gear. This is how you do it.

Sasquatch Nation: Firstly, what’s your live setup these days? How’s it working out for you, anything you’d like to change?

Brad from Pissed Jeans: Right now, I’m using a Peavey Renown into a 2x12” blackface bassman cab and a 1966 Fender Showman into a 70’s 4x12” bassman cab.  The 4x12” is one of those diamond shaped ones inside with all the speakers angled.  It’s a total monster of a cab and takes up so much room.  I used one the first time we were in Europe and fell in love with it.  Took me almost 2 years to find one local enough to pick up.  

Inside the 70s Fender 4x12.

I think I’ve used the renown since our second show.  I bought it in 95 or 96 from Mark Kale, who I worked with at a screen printing shop.  He used it in Weston and a few other bands, then I bought it, used it for a few years, sold it to our now bassist Randy, who then sold it to our friend Michael, who then sold it back to me in 2004 when the Jeans started playing more.  The loudest amp I’ve ever heard/played.  For the first few years it was just plug in and turn it up all the way.  Over the past 4 years when I’ve moved more to overdrives and other pedals, I’ve switched to the “clean” channel on it, which has more mid range.   One dude made me a pedal with a Super Hard On, Infinity Drive and Church of Tone clones in it.  I’m running the SHO into the peavey.  The SHO is at about 3:00 and I adjust the gain on the amp for the song or guitar I’m using.  The Showman is basically clean all the way up to 10, so whatever pedal is pushing it gives it it’s sound.  With that, I mainly use a BYOC OD2 with the trim pots cranked to the point where they don’t just feedback automatically.  I also mix it up with the overdrive on this Bardel pedal sometimes.

Not too much to change right now.  I was using a 4x12” sunn cab with the peavey for the longest time, but the switch to a 2x12” cab hasn’t had any change in volume or tone.  It’s just a lot easy for loading and on the van space.  I do switch up the Showman with a sunn 1200s every so often.  I’m always switching up guitars, pedals, heads etc to keep it interesting for me.  

Here’s the Peavey Renown with the Sunn 1200s. Brad is hidden (sorry Brad). Photo from Mechanical Forest Sound.

SN: I noticed a couple of years ago you switched from an SG to a Jazzmaster. What was the reason for the change?

BfPJ: I like to think that I have a pretty distinct tone, but I get bored with stuff, so I want it to be ever evolving, but still be kind of tied back to the original vision of the band.  I picked up a jaguar in early 2008, but it needed some adjustments for it to be playing for me.  Had to pick up a mustang bridge, buzzstop etc.  I do this with all my Jags and Jazzmasters.   So it’s May 2008 and we’re playing the last show of a 3 week European tour.  It’s Primavera Sound in Spain in front of the biggest crowd we’ve ever played to.  We’re three songs in, I set down my SG, or so I thought.  Came back to it and the headstock is hanging off the neck.  Just a clean break.  So that sucks, but it was the last show, so no big deal and I go to grab my telecaster.  Pull it out and the jack is hanging out of the body.  No clue what happened between soundcheck and then. Three songs in, two broken guitars.  Luckily after some throwing around of the SG, I was able to borrow a tele from one of the other bands and finish the set.  

When we got home, I picked up another SG shortly after that, but it just had this massive neck and never had the feel of the other one.  I ended up just selling it and picking up another jaguar.  I was kind of sick of the Gibson g string falling out of tune issue as well.  I used a Jaguar with a humbucker in it for a while and actually recorded most of King of Jeans with that.  I’ve grown to really like using single coils for their clarity live so the jazzmaster falls into that category.  While we’re still pretty loud live, we’ve tried to clean up our sound for the live show.  

My main rotation now is the Jazzmaster, Jaguar with humbucker, Epiphone Sheraton [Pissed Jeans with a Sheraton!!!??? - Sasquatch] and a Tele Deluxe.  I mainly use the Tele Deluxe for shows we fly to since it has the smallest case, but when we were in Spain last year either me flinging it across the stage or Matt trying to do a windmill with it broke one of the tuning keys.  I’ve just been too lazy to fix it.  Had to take the Jazzmaster with us to Finland/Poland and I was nervous.  Wouldn’t you know it, the gear was lost for a little bit and we didn’t have it for the first show.

SN: What was your latest gear purchase, and why?

BfPJ: I’ve kind of slowed down as of late.  My room of gear was starting to get crowded and playing time has been going down.  The last thing I bought was a Mexican Strat.  I’ve always wanted a Strat, but never wanted to pay for an American one.  With most Fenders, it’s not where it’s made, it’s how the guitar feels.  I’ve played Squiers that have felt better than some American made Fenders.  This one had a hotrail in the bridge and just felt nice.  When playing live, the routine is play and put the guitar back in its case.  I never really clean them up or anything so they get pretty gross and beat up after a while.  This will be a good live guitar.  It’s amazing how thick the hotrails are.  Amp wise, I picked up a pretty cool Gretsch Super Bass earlier this year.  It’s Valco made and pretty interesting.  Has two transformers that each power one of the 12”s.  Just a volume and tone knob with a selector switch for guitar, low bass and high bass.  It’s pretty weird and sounds great cranked, but the speakers are a bit harsh in it.

Back of the Gretch Super Bass - cool.

SN: How does one achieve the best feedback, gearwise?

BfPJ: I guess that depends on the type of feedback you want.  With gear, the louder the better.  When we started playing, I tried to use feedback as part of the overall sound.  It’s so hard to contain when playing loud, so why no embrace it.  Most of the screechy feedback I get is from jamming my fist in between the pick ups.

SN: What’s your favourite piece? or something you couldn’t live without?

BfPJ: The hardest thing to let go of would be my 1963 Blonde Bassman.  It’s recovered, but everything else in it is 1967 or prior.  The thing just sounds incredible.  When it’s cranked on 10 it sounds like a 70’s marshall, but at lower volumes it’s clean and full.  I’ll never use it live or anything, but it’s my go to amp for playing at home.  I’m a huge ventures mark, especially the live stuff where it’s actually them playing.  I get super psyched each time I get to play a Mosrite through the Bassman cause it nails that tone.

SN: Are you a gear nerd?

BfPJ: To an extent, yes.  I love gear, I love knowing about what it does and how things play, but I’ve never got into the mechanics of them.  I tried to build a pedal once and got so frustrated.  I wish I knew more and was self sufficient when I comes to repairs, but I just have no patience. 

SN: What are you on the lookout for at the moment, if anything?

BfPJ: The old saying is the small old tube amps sound the biggest for recording.  Well, our producer, Alex Newport, had this 68 or 69 drip edge Fender Champ and the thing sounded incredible.  Everything on 10 was so fuzzy, but since it had a bass control, it was still really full.  So I’d love one of those, but I’d love to compare it to a blackface one.  I’ve played a blackface vibro champ, but I don’t remember it being that dirty.  Outside of that, pretty much any weird small tube amp.  I borrowed a Silvertone 1472 from my friend Joe and that thing was great too.  

SN: I take it your personal amp setup is quite crucial to the Pissed Jeans sound? How do you find it when you’re in other places playing with backline that potentially sounds different from your idiosyncratic rig?

BfPJ: It definitely is important and we try to use our own gear whenever possible.  We rented gear our first trip to Europe and I used a Model T and beefed up JCM800.  It was great.  I’ve done my best to just not let it bother me when we’re playing with a backline and just trust the soundmen that it sounds good out front.  The hardest thing, believe it or not, is not using two amps/heads.  Using two amps isn’t really for volume, it’s more for filling out the sound.  I a lot of cases, the backline is a silverface twin or a JCM900.  Two amps not really know for their bottom end.  

SN: Has your setup been influenced by other musicians? How about when you were younger or just starting out, did you try to mimic the gear of bands that you really loved?

BfPJ: It definitely has.  Tone is like fashion.  When you’re younger, you’re still figuring out what you want and who you are.  When I first started playing, I had no money, there was no internet and places like guitar center didn’t exist by me.  It was trial and error, with plenty of error on my end.  I actually didn’t own too much gear for a long time.  When we were doing the Ultimate Warriors, I played bass and sang. I had a bass, but borrowed amps and when we were doing the Gate Crashers, I sang.  I was filling in on guitar for another band our drummer played with and I had to borrow a guitar and an amp to play with them.  For the longest time I figured to be a good guitar player, you needed to be able to play super fast and perfect.  It wasn’t until I realized the what makes a player good is tone and style that I figured out the sound that worked best for me.  I’m sloppy, noisy and have short stubby fingers so I just ended up embracing that.  I won’t ever be technically sound.  

When we started, I just wanted to sound like the first Fang record and I actually saw he had what looked to be a Renown, so that’s when I bought it back and started using it.  That record was a huge influence on the way I played moving from a scooped mid sound to mids all the way up sound.  I’ve always figured the best guitar sound is one where the amp sounds like it’s on 10 and ready to blow up. 

Peavey Renown - these old Peaveys are built like goddam tanks. Pretty good for bass too.

SN: Any advice for other bands when it comes to touring with gear? What has being in a touring band taught you about gear?

BfPJ: What I’ve learned is to not tour with anything you care about.  It may be fine mechanically, but cosmetically it’s gonna get beat up.  My sunn 1200s has had the frame cracked from Matt dropping it and the 4x12” cab tolex is just destroyed.   Guitars broken, pedals covered in beer etc.  Another key thing is you don’t know who or what you’ll be dealing with at shows.  Some sound guys are cool, but you need to be prepared to get your sound at a low volume and a normal volume.

My all time favourite band photo.

Huge thanks to Brad for going into epic detail about his gear. This was great. 

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Rest in Peace, Julie Hertling

We were sad to learn yesterday that Julian Hertling passed away. 

For those unfamiliar, Julian – who’s also lovingly known as Julie to friends – ran the Hertling trouser factory in Brooklyn. If you’ve ever bought a pair of made-in-USA pants, there’s a good chance it was made here. Hertling has done private label work for Paul Stuart, Orvis, Sid Mashburn, Billy Reid, Epaulet, Howard Yount, our advertiser Dapper Classics, and many, many more. Without their work, most guys be left with lower-end $100 trousers and uber-expensive $300 options that few people can afford. Hertling specializes in high-end tailored trousers that guys can buy around the $200-ish mark. 

The Hertling factory was actually opened in 1925 by Julian’s father, Morris. Julian took over in 1946 when he returned from WWII (he served in the US Army). His commitment to the US garment trade made him a titan in the industry and we’re sad to see him go. 

(photo via David Wood)

Rest in power, my friend.

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eBay Roundup

There’s a lot of great menswear on eBay, but to find the good stuff, you have to search for hours. Which is why we do these roundups, so that our readers can find good deals easily and quickly. For those looking to get an extra round-up each week, subscribe to our Inside Track newsletter. We not only cover the best of eBay, we also list each week’s store sales.

Some of the best finds today are in the outerwear section. There are great deals on UK-made wool bombers, brown checked double-breasted overcoats, and a special Junya Watanabe collaboration with leather jacket maker Vanson (note, that jacket fits really slim, so check measurements). You can see the same Junya jacket here on Tay Trong, an artist in Los Angeles. 

To find more menswear on eBay, try using our customized search links. We’ve made them so you can quickly hone-in on high-end suits, good suits, high-quality shirts and fine footwear.

Suits, sport coats and blazers

Outerwear

Sweaters and knits

Shirts and pants

Shoes

Ties

Bags, briefcases, and wallets

Misc.

If you want access to an extra roundup every week, exclusive to members, join Put This On’s Inside Track for just five bucks a month.

Made the Roundup!

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Set up and ready to go for the final round of the @kiwivintagemarket Pop-Ups! Here 'til 6 with lots of new inventory! OG Streetwear, Tommy, Polo, tees for daaaaays. - - - - - #vintage #polo #tommy #polosport #poloralphlauren #uncleralph #tommyhilfiger #vintagetee #tshirt #kiwivintagemarket #atlanta #eastatlanta #theclash #nirvana #helmet #vintageposter #thrifting #thriftlife #rebelsandrogues (at Kiwi Vintage & Green Home Market)

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