I am living with the most precious family. S, from Alterna – the organization I’m working with – brought me from the Xela bus station to the home of my host. The two greeted each other like they hadn’t seen each other in years, with kisses and hugs and delighted squeals from Sophie: “Mama Cony!” In fact, it had been just a few weeks. Mama Cony greeted me with open arms and sweet Spanish words. She is warm and mild and told me with a smile when I said that I wanted to tell my mother I had arrived safely, “tell your mama that you are with your mama Guatemalteca now.” Papa Carlos is just as affectionate and full of jokes. Neither speaks any English. He proudly told me about Mama Cony’s fantastic cooking (“the best in Xela”) and kissed her on the cheek, delighted. Upon meeting me, he brought out a globe so I could point out my countries. “You’re directly across the world!”

It took me a moment to notice Mama Cony when I first arrived because my eyes first went to everything else in the room. The Philippines prides itself on overloading on Christmas decorations, or all decorations, but the endearing decorative chaos of Café Juanita in Manila has nothing on this home. The living room could be The Christmas Tree Shop in the US on a going-out-of-business sale: wreaths in every corner, smiley snowmen figurines, seasonal plaid couch covers, stuffed Santas hanging from shelves – no Christmas tree, but you’d never miss it. 

And then you look into the kitchen/dining area. “Bienvenido a la casa de las vacas,” they welcomed me when I first arrived. There are cows everywhere. The one that started it all is a cow clock, the numbers on the mother cow with a calf drinking from the udders below. The cow print continues on – oven mitts, cookie jar, an entire hutch of cow glasses, egg cups, waste bin, cut outs pasted on each cupboard, a floppy stuffed animal draped on the back of a chair, the table cloth, you name it. 

Plastered in between cow memorabilia are collages of photos and cards. Mama Cony described with shining eyes the countless people they’ve hosted over the last 5 years. Pointing at photos and bringing out scrapbooks, she recalled a lawyer “muy chistoso” from Taiwan, a Canadian who lived with them for 10 months (“I cried and cried when he left”), a young woman who came alone and returned years later to introduce her adorably chubby baby to La Casa de Las Vacas. 

At lunch today, M (another houseguest/my new friend who just joined Alterna and is in Guatemala for the first time as well), Mama Cony, Papa Carlos and their two incredibly sweet teenage daughters (the two oldest children live in another town), and I sat down to Delicious Meal #2 of the day. Breakfast was banana stuffed pancakes with honey and cinnamon tea. Lunch was arroz con pollo, salsa picante, gravy, and tamales de maíz, with atole (my new favorite hot beverage.) The family is bubbly, patient, and curious. They guide us when we stumble over tenses, but I’m getting messages across. We have already planned to have a mango-eating competition when they are in season in March. Also, great news, Mama Cony apparently makes a to-die-for “pie de queso” (cheesecake!)

At the end of the meal, when someone gets up from the table, he/she says “muchas gracias” and the others reply “buen provecho.” May this food benefit you well.