Here is a Free pattern with the step by step photos instruction for a rounded zipper pocket with gusset. It’s perfect for the Tosti utility jacket and the Pepernoot hooded coat from Waffle Patterns. I designed this functional pocket referring to mens gadget bags.
1. Cut the parts and mark the markings following the pattern indication. I’m using tape for the Pocket Side pieces, but you can use any matching fabric. Be careful the photo shows only the right side parts, please double them for L/R sides pockets. I use a square fabric piece instead of the bodice for the explanation. Press interfacing on the zipper place of the pocket and bodice. *In this example, I pressed interfacing on the whole pocket piece, because the fabric is stretchy.
< Pocket side / Zipper >
1. Put markings on the zipper following the Pocket side template. Fold the edges of the Pocket Side pieces on the seamline.
2. Stitch the Pocket Side pieces to the zipper. If your zipper is longer than the marking, shorten the zipper or cover by the Pocket side and sew over the zipper teeth. The connected piece will be the same length as the template.
< Attach zipper to pocket >
1. Place the Pocket Side with Zipper along the rounded edge of the pocket piece right sides together. Sew with the 6mm(1/4”) seam allowance. Clip into the curve.
2. Turn it to right side. Topstitch along the curved edge.
< Shape pocket >
1. Press and crease the seamline of the pocket edge before stitching. Check the diagonal stitch line on the edge.
2. Fold the edge of the pocket putting together the diagonal lines right sides together as shown in the pic. 3. Sew the diagonal line.
4. Cut the edge. 5. Open the seam. 6. Turn it right side out. Shape and press the edge.
< Attach pocket to bodice >
1. Check the pocket placement markings on the bodice. *You can put markings using the pattern pieces of the pocket as a guide.
2/3. Place the pocket side edge onto the bodice right sides facing along the round marking and stitch. If aligning curve is difficult, work it with divide 2 parts as shown in the pic.
4. Shape the pocket and place on the bodice. Fold both edges of the pocket side as M shape as shown in the pic. Stitch the edges.
***** Voila! ******
*********************
Hope the instruction is clear. If you have any questions about the pattern and instruction, please contact me. If you share your photos of your creation from my patterns on your blog or other media, please share with Waffle Pattern’s address and don’t forget the tag #wafflepatterns on the SNSs!