Waffle Patterns // sewing patterns for ladies — Tips for sewing Dropje with knit fabrics and how...

Tips for sewing Dropje with knit fabrics
and how to attach hood string

I just released the optional extra sleeve pattern for Dropje vest. This time I want to share tips for sewing this with knit fabrics.

Although the original Dropje is drafted for woven fabric, many customers are making this with knit. I also tried with this light gray knit during the drafting and I noticed some points which better to share.

Waffle Patterns sewing patterns Dropje vest optional sleeve pattern

** Adjust the hem belt circumference ** I shortened the circumference of the hem belt piece for better balance as a knit wear. For this sample I used knit fabric with some body and low-mid tension (about 15-20%). I reduced about -10~15% and stitch it to the bodice hem stretching equally between notches. The amount that should be reduced will depend on your fabric, so please try to check the fit by basting or refer to the measurement of similar clothes you have.

** Adjust the cuff circumference ** I shortened the cuff pieces, too the same as the hem belt piece. For the cuff, the reduced amount was about -15%. Again, the amount depends your fabric and preference. Please check it refer to the above.

** No interfacing on the hem belt and cuff pieces ** The instruction shows the hem band and cuff pieces are interfaced parts as woven fabric. But no need for knit fabric, since they are intended to be stretch.

** Easier and safer to choose low tension knit with some body ** Especially for beginners. Since the design includes darts or pockets, stretchy and slippy lightweight knits are tricky to handle. I think sweat shirt knit is one of the easy option.

** Please consider to size down with knit fabric as your preference ** But again, it depend on the fabric. Since my sample fabric is not really stretchy, I used the same size as the woven type and found no problem for me.

How to attach hood string

I also want to share how to attach hood string. It is not difficult and add professional finish to your hoodie.

1. Before stitching the hood pieces, make holes on the both L/R side on the hood front. I made a hole with this 5mm eyelet parts. Refer to the photo for the hole place.

2. Then sew the garment following the instruction. After all steps finished, top stitch along the hood edge offsetting 30mm.