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“durs à cuir” by Kurt Markus for vogue hommes international 1991

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MARTIN MARGIELA  1977 / 1979 Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Fashion Department, Antwerp, Belgium.  1984 / 1987 Jean Paul Gaultier, Design Assistant, Paris, France.  MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA  1988 Founding of Maison Martin Margiela (Neuf SAS) with Ms. Jenny Meirens.  Headquarters established at 102 rue Réaumur, 75002 Paris. Walls and furniture are painted in white or covered in white cotton.  1988, October 23rd First Maison Martin Margiela collection for women’s ready-to-wear (SS 1989).  1989, June  First ever winner of the ANDAM fellowship.  1990, March  Maison Martin Margiela’s headquarters move to 13 boulevard Saint-Denis, 75002 Paris, in a six-room apartment painted entirely in white, with the chandeliers covered in white muslin.  1993, October 11th Presentation of Maison Martin Margiela’s “Retrospective” collection (SS 1994).  1994,  April Maison Martin Margiela’s headquarters move to 2 bis passage Ruelle, 75018 Paris, in a former workshop. The atelier for the “Artisanal” production is now incorporated in the showroom.  1994, September 7th Simultaneous presentations in stores in Paris, Milan, New York, Tokyo, London, and Bonn substitute for the Paris fashion show (AW 1994-95).  1995, September / 1996, January  Maison Martin Margiela exhibition at Palais des Beaux-Arts, Brussels.  1995, October Publication of a special edition of Street magazine (Japan) entirely dedicated to Maison Martin Margiela’s collections from SS 1989 up to AW 1995-96.  1996, September / 1997, January Participation in the Florence Biennale on Fashion & Art, “Visitors” section, Museo Bardini.  1997, May The plain white rectangular label is joined by a new label: a white rectangle printed in black with the numbers 0 to 23. The encircled number indicates which line of Maison Martin Margiela’s collection the garment or object is part of.  1997, June / August First solo Maison Martin Margiela exhibition, (9/4/1615), at the Museum Boijmans van Beuningen in Rotterdam. In 1999, this exhibition will travel to Kyoto (April), New York (May) and Tokyo (August).  1997, October Line 6 joins Maison Martin Margiela’s collections as a complimentary vision of femininity. In June 2004, Line 6 evolves into MM6 – Garments for ♀, and gets a new label.  1998, March Line 22 – A collection of shoes for women, joins Maison Martin Margiela’s collections.  1998, March 9th Presentation of the first Hermès women’s ready-to-wear collection designed by Martin Margiela. He will continue to serve as the artistic director of Hermès’ women’s collections until October 2003 (SS 2004).  1998, March 10th Presentation by Maison Martin Margiela of interpretations of the AW 1998-99 collection by Mark Borthwick, Jane How and Sydney Picasso.  1998, April Maison Martin Margiela is the curator of the first A Magazine.  1998, October Line 10 – The collection for men, joins Maison Martin Margiela’s collections. Line 13 – Objects and publications, begins with the publication of its first book: 2000-1 by Mark Borthwick.  1998, October 15th Presentation of Maison Martin Margiela’s 20th women’s ready-to-wear collection (SS 1999).  1999, March  Publication of a second special edition of Street magazine dedicated to collections from SS 1996 up to SS 1999, including features on the exhibitions in Brussels, Florence and Rotterdam.  1999, November Worldwide publication of a second book as part of Line 13, compiling the two Street magazine special volumes on Maison Martin Margiela.  1999, December 18th Maison Martin Margiela’s headquarters move to 175 faubourg Poissonnière, 75009 Paris. The new home is a large “maison de maître” standing in its own gardens in the Barbès area.  2000, September The first Maison Martin Margiela store opens in Tokyo. Located in the Ebisu area of the city, this former residence incorporates the offices and sales rooms of Kokonoe Corp Ltd (the joint venture company in charge of the Maison Martin Margiela brand in Japan), as well as a store on the ground floor. In February 2006, the store moves to another location in a former electrical products factory building, still in the Ebisu area.  2001, October Participation in Radical Fashion exhibition at the Victoria & Albert museum, London.  2002, February Maison Martin Margiela Brussels, the first store in Europe exclusively dedicated to Maison Martin Margiela’s collections, opens on rue de Flandre.  2002, June Maison Martin Margiela’s first Paris women’s store opens at 25 bis rue de Montpensier, next to the Palais Royal.  2002, July Renzo Rosso, owner and president of OTB (Only The Brave) Group and founder of Diesel, enters Neuf SAS as majority shareholder. 2002, August Maison Martin Margiela Sendai store opens in Japan. 2002, September The first ever Maison Martin Margiela store exclusively dedicated to men’s collections opens at 23 rue de Montpensier in Paris, nearby the women’s store. 2002, October Maison Martin Margiela Aoyama opens in Tokyo.  2003, September Maison Martin Margiela Osaka store opens in early September.  2003, October Line 4 – A wardrobe for women, joins the collections.  2004, April Maison Martin Margiela London store opens in Bruton Place, off London’s New Bond Street in a former artist’s atelier. The store then moves to Bruton Street in December 2008.  2004, July Line 14 – A wardrobe for men, joins the collections as a complement to Line 10.  2004, December 8th Maison Martin Margiela’s headquarters move to 163 rue Saint-Maur, 75011 Paris. The new home is a 3,000 square-meter former convent and instrial design school in the Oberkampf area.  2005, January Line 11 – A collection of accessories for women and men, joins the collections. Line 22 – A collection of shoes, now offers a range of shoes for men as well as women.  2005, September Maison Martin Margiela Grenelle store opens on the Paris left bank.  2005, October Maison Martin Margiela Taipei store opens in Taiwan. In December 2006, it becomes a shop-in-shop in the Sogo department store.  2005, October / November Maison Martin Margiela is given a carte blanche by ANDAM and presents its “Artisanal” collection in the windows of the ministère de la Culture et de la Communication at the Palais Royal.  2005, December Maison Martin Margiela opens its first American store in New York, in the West Village.  2006, January  Maison Martin Margiela is the guest designer at the Pitti Immagine Uomo. Maison Martin Margiela becomes Correspondent Member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. First “Artisanal” presentation during the Haute Couture SS 2006 fashion week.  2006, June Maison Martin Margiela Hong Kong store’s future location presents An exhibition before Refurbishment.  2006, July  Maison Martin Margiela Hong Kong store opens.  2007, February / March Maison Martin Margiela’s first exhibition in Italy is held at Galleria Carla Sozzani - Corso Como 10, Milan. The exhibition is centered on the Maison’s creative process, presenting its “Artisanal” collection for men and women since its creation in 1989.  2007, September  Maison Martin Margiela Los Angeles store opens in Beverly Hills. The first Maison Martin Margiela store in Italy opens in Milan.  2007, October Line 8 – Eyewear collection, is introduced with the first model, “Incognito.”  2007, November  Maison Martin Margiela Aoyama store moves its location to Omotesando.  2007, December Maison Martin Margiela Saint Petersburg store opens in Russia.  2008, March Maison Martin Margiela announces the signing of a partnership agreement with L’Oréal’s Luxury Products Division for the creation of a line of perfumes. Maison Martin Margiela collaborates with Cream magazine to publish their 9th issue: Maison Martin Margiela Edition 2008. The Defilé collection becomes a separate line in itself and bears the blank white rectangle label. From then on, Line 1 will have the number ‘1’ circled on its label.  2008, June / July  Along with its partner I.T., Maison Martin Margiela presents its first exhibition in Greater China at the 798 Gallery in the Dashanzi area of Beijing, revealing the different facets of its work through current and archive documents, garments and videos.  2008, July Line 12 – Maison Martin Margiela creates its first collection of fine jewelry.  2008, September  Celebration show on September 29th, 2008 - 20th anniversary of Maison Martin Margiela.  2008, September / 2009, February Maison Martin Margiela 20 - The exhibition, a retrospective of the past 20 years, takes place at the Antwerp ModeMuseum (MoMu). In March 2009, the exhibition moves to Haus der Kunst, Munich (March / June 2009).  2008, October Maison Martin Margiela Kowloon store opens in Hong Kong.  2009, January  After Christian Lacroix in 2008, the Cité de l’architecture & du patrimoine and ELLE Décoration offer a carte blanche to Maison Martin Margiela for the interior work of “La Suite,” a 220 square-meter apartment that formerly belonged to Jacques Carlu, architect of the palais Chaillot in the 1930’s, located opposite the Eiffel tower.  2009, March Maison Martin Margiela Munich store opens in Germany. The first Maison Martin Margiela store in United Arab Emirates opens in Dubai.  2009, April Salone del Mobile, Milan: Maison Martin Margiela introduces its concepts of interior architecture through an installation, Mat, Satiné, Brillant, which recreates the environment and atmosphere of its Interior Design workshop, using a variety of creative expressions of the Maison’s identity and philosophy.  2009, October Publication of Maison Martin Margiela, a book celebrating the Maison’s 20th anniversary, by Rizzoli.  2009, December Maison Martin Margiela is in charge of the interior design of the “L’île aux oiseaux” suite at Les Sources de Caudalie in Bordeaux. 2010, January Launch of (untitled), first women’s fragrance by Maison Martin Margiela.

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“Sometimes I can hear my bones straining under the weight of all the lives I’m not living.”

— Jonathan Safran Foer

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