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LaVieve Cosplay

@lavievecosplay / lavievecosplay.tumblr.com

Seamstress/Designer/Cosplayer ✨18✨INFP✨she/her✨
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reblogged
Anonymous asked:

Will you please actually style the Kachan wig? Leaving it super fluffy is def not the character

lmao I was so confused by this ask till I looked back and realized I haven’t posted any Kacchan selfies for months. 

I left the wig fluffy for a while because I didn’t have much motivation to style it till I went to an actual event. Rest assured, it’s more spiky now, and I have plans to make it even more so in the future ^-^

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Here’s ya proof!

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Anonymous asked:

Will you please actually style the Kachan wig? Leaving it super fluffy is def not the character

lmao I was so confused by this ask till I looked back and realized I haven't posted any Kacchan selfies for months. 

I left the wig fluffy for a while because I didn’t have much motivation to style it till I went to an actual event. Rest assured, it’s more spiky now, and I have plans to make it even more so in the future ^-^

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Thermoplastic Pricing Guide and Behavior Cheat Sheet

 -These prices are based off of US stores and shipping rates. These prices are consistent across many websites and discounts are offered on bulk orders. Prices vary depending on shipping country.

*Sintra is offered in many sizes and shapes. The prices listed are from CosplaySupplies.com . More sizes than these exist. Sintra is a company name for foamed PVC. You can often find cheaper sheets of “sintra” by looking for “foamed PVC” or “extruded PVC”

* Worbla

-  The most well-known thermoplastic in the cosplay community. Available from multiple vendors online and from a few physical stores. -  Thermoplastic capable of multidimensional shaping -  Has no internal mesh -  Can be heated with a hair dryer or heat gun (better results from heat gun) -  Capable of reusing scraps by reheating them -  Smooth adhesive side/rough exterior side – can adhere to itself -  Relatively thin, often requires a supporting material in armor (craft foam sandwich) -  Most expensive of the thermoplastics -  Requires priming (wood glue, gesso, ect.) to remove texture

  *Terraflex

-  Only sold by Tandy Leather. If you live near a store this product has the benefit of no shipping costs and the ability to pick up same day its needed -  Thermoplastic capable of multidimensional shaping -  Has no internal mesh -  Can be heated with a hair dryer or heat gun (better results from heat gun) -  Capable of reusing scraps by reheating them -  Smooth adhesive side/rough exterior side – can adhere to itself -  Relatively thin, often requires a supporting material in armor (craft foam sandwich) -  “knockoff” of Worbla, if you have Tandy Leather membership cards, it makes it a fair bit cheaper than Worbla -  Requires priming (wood glue, gesso, ect.) to remove texture -  Has a scent, smells like graham crackers when heated

*Wonderflex

-  Contains an internal mesh -  The mesh provides additional stability to thermoplastic -  Can be heated with a hair dryer or heat gun (better results from heat gun) -  Smooth adhesive side/rough exterior side – can adhere to itself -  Internal mesh prevents multidimensional shaping without puckering -  (mesh can be picked out- extremely work intensive) -  Relatively thin, often requires a supporting material in armor (craft foam sandwich) -  Requires priming (wood glue, gesso, ect.) to remove texture

*Sintra

-  Comes in a variety of thicknesses -  A UNIDEMNSIONAL material. Is incapable of making compound shapes – i.e. can only bend in one direction without cutting darts. -  Can be brittle if cut when cool or across large pieces of material -  Needs to be heated with a heat gun or large heat source like an oven to work with uniformly -  Does not adhere to itself. Requires glue to bond pieces together -  Smooth texture doesn’t require priming like Worbla, Terraflex, or Wonderflex - Due to variety of thicknesses, it can be used on its own for armor pieces (no foam sandwiches) -  Cheapest of the thermoplastics, but limited in some areas. Great for things like pauldrons and vambraces, not so much with breastplates and curves. -  Because it is PVC, it is strongly recommended to wear a respirator and have ventilation when heating this material due to fumes.

* Transpa Art

-  Transparent thermoplastic -  Needs to be heated with a heat gun and only workable within a small temperature range -  Does not adhere it itself like other thermoplastics. Requires cyanoacrylate glues to stick pieces together. -  Not a strong as Worbla, Terraflex, ect. -  Cannot be reformed with scraps -  Great for accents and LED applications -  Elemental Photography and Design, and Kamui Cosplay do excellent videos showing more of how Transpa behaves

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atelierheidi

How to make custom lace appliques – the “Frankenlace” method

A lot of people asked for more info on how I made the appliques that decorate the bottom of Zelda’s gown. Here’s my tutorial for the whole process! This method can be used to make all kinds of applique shapes and designs if you get creative with it.

  1. These lace appliques are made out of other lace – hence the nickname. To get started, you’ll need to collect a few lace trims to use as raw material. Look for styles that are similar or complement each other, because you’ll be combining them. This is some, but not all, of the trims I used. I bought these in the LA fabric district, but most are available at trimexpoonline.com.
  2. Cut your lace down into smaller pieces that are more modular. Don’t cut up ALL your lace – this is just an experimentation stage, to practice rearranging the design.
  3. Using a template of your desired shape (I made mine digitally, but you can hand draw one too) practice arranging your pieces until you find a design that suits your needs. This is not my final design in the picture – I went through several versions before I was totally happy with how it looked. You might discover that you need more lace, which is why planning and experimentation are so important. When you’re satisfied with how it looks, it’s time to start putting it all together.
  4. You’ll need an embroidery hoop large enough to cover your whole template, plus some netting that is as close to transparent as you can find. Most generic tulle is NOT fine enough to do well with this technique – the holes are too large and the tulle stretches too much when handled. Look for netting that does not stretch or fray, if possible. Put some netting in your embroidery hoop, tightening the surface like a drum. I taped my template to a small sheet of masonite to give myself a portable work surface. I also ended up using clamps to hold the embroidery hoop to the masonite, but forgot to get a picture. This is optional, but really helps the design from shifting too much as you work.
  5. Tools for the next step: fabric glue (other brands work too), a small paintbrush, and a water cup. I watered my glue down a little to make it easier to spread with the paintbrush. Be careful not to add TOO much water, or your glue will be too thin, not grip well, and take a long time to dry.
  6. Working in small sections, begin gluing your lace pieces onto the netting. Start at the center and work outward, if possible. Continue until all your lace pieces are glued onto the netting.
  7. Here’s what mine looked like with all the lace attached! At this point, I flipped the embroidery hoop over and applied a second coat of glue over the entire back of the work. The netting is so thin that you can continue to apply more glue from the backside to get a more secure grip.
  8. Optional: add rhinestones to taste. I used E6000 for this step. Not every applique requires rhinestones, but in this case I wanted Zelda to sparkle as much as possible.
  9. Repeat to create as many appliques as you need! Zelda has 8 along the bottom of her dress. Here’s part of my assembly line.
  10. When you’re ready to attach the applique to your fashion fabric, trim away some of the netting along the outside, but leave any “interior” portions that help stabilize the design. I simply glued my appliques onto the silk, but I later went back and hand-stitched them down for a more secure hold. After they are properly attached to your fabric, you can VERY CAREFULLY trim away the “interior” pockets of plain netting using small scissors.
  11. The final look of my gown, after all the appliques and trim were attached.

This method is very time consuming and requires a lot of patience and concentration – but I just love the results! I wanted to achieve the look of professionally-made applique, but without access to industrial equipment, this was the next best thing I could come up with. 

The white-on-white effect is subtle, but matches the look I was going for. Photo by Vontography.

I hope this is helpful to some of you in your own costume projects. Let me know if you have any questions, and good luck!

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aicosu

My HeatNBond tutorial!! 🤗 This is how I made the gold parts in my Goddess Mercy cosplay! Its also how I made my Emily scarf, and tons of other cosplay stuff. Hope this helps!! And let me know if you want me to do more videos like this! . . #cosplay #cosplaytutorial #cosplaytips #cosplayvideo #cosplayguide #heatnbond #cosplaysewing #tutorial #cosplaydiy #diy #mercycosplay #overwatchcosplay

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how to cosplay

  • cry
  • procrastinate
  • spend obscene amounts of money at the craft store
  • ???????
  • pray to the cosplay goddess for redemption
  • bleed on costume
  • cry some more
  • HOT GLUE
  • woolah you are now a cosplayer
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The actual app is here. What I really like about this app is after you plug all your data in the app tells you the fabric length required:

With a note to say whether it will fit on a standard 45″ / 115cm width fabric…

Or whether you’d be better off using a 60″ / 150cm width fabric…

Or perhaps a suggestion of making a shorter skirt length.

There is also this excellent circle skirt generator from CircleSkirtPattern. You plug in your waist, hem length and seam allowance and you can choose from the most popular fabric widths - 45" and 60". It tells you how much fabric you need, whether it can be cut from one piece of fabric etc…

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reblogged

The Juliet Strap. Bridals best kept secret.

You’ll find them on most strapless bridal gowns, if the style allows for it, but you wont see much mention of them online.

I haven’t been able to find any tutorials, no explanation, just the occasional reference on a bridal site. Sometimes they’re wrongly called a waist stay, other times I’ve seen them called an elastic bustier, but Juliet strap is what we call them, and its less confusing. The manufacturers who make our dresses for us (I work with a bridal designer) have never been confused when we asked for a Juliet strap in a dress.

Its a wide strap of elastic thats sewn into the side seams and has a closure like a bra band. I’ve seen them up to about 8 inches wide, the one in the picture is about 3.

What does a Juliet strap do? It holds the front of the dress to you! If its wide enough, it will also act as a bit of a corset. 

The strap helps hold the front up, and against your body. And keeps the movement of the front to a minimum. If you’re worried about a dress falling down, or not giving enough support in the front, its an easy alteration that will improve the fit. however, It works best with boning.

It would be the perfect addition to a bunny suit, or strapless dresses like Neo Queen serenity. 

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pixelghosts

I’ve been getting a lot of gross messages lately and they all complain about my cosplays just because of my race. Instead of taking it to heart, I put together some pictures of some of my favorite cosplays that I’ve done. I’m not cosplaying for “accuracy,” I’m doing it because it fun and I enjoy it. And even if I was doing it for said accuracy, my being black doesn’t hold me back from that. I’ll never understand people’s need to “critique” someone else but base it on a factor that they cannot change. That goes for skin color, race, body type whatever! Next time any of you want to message giving your opinion on the way someone looks naturally, shut your mouth! :) 💕

^^^👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾

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