HOME CHEF: LEGAL HERBALISM
By Michael W. Sasser | Photos licensed by Ingram Image
Sure, sure, all the country seems to be arguing about the legality of one “herb.” But even the casual home chef knows the importance of appropriate use of the tastier herbs. Take a breath. We’re talking the ones we cook with, not the ones we just baked or are baked by.
By now, most foodies have heard the mantra that any good dish revolves around a quality, fresh main ingredient with its natural flavor accentuated. Good advice, but if it were that simple, we’d all be Gordon Ramsay. It takes a little more, like seasoning, appropriate preparation, proper pairing, and even presentation. Herbs are a key to seasoning. In some cases, the simplest preparation may well be salt and pepper and an herbal finish. Herbs both bring out and add flavor, depth, brightness and/or the distinct flavor of a particular dish.
Many of us are probably familiar with the everyday herbs in Western kitchens – basil, oregano, thyme, cilantro, maybe fresh mint or rosemary. But the world of herbs is so much more than that, and work in so many combinations, it really can be one of the more creative aspects of your cooking. Remember that many herbs come in dry and fresh versions. Both have a role to play. Dried herbs are introduced into a recipe early and often in slow-cooking preparations. Fresh versions of the same herb generally are used in the finishing stages, generally are “brighter” and can taste almost completely different than when dried. Versions of the same herb often pair well together – such has a red sauce with dry oregano and basil added in the vegetable browning phase, and finished with fresh versions at the culmination.
Simple, right? But those are a huge range for rules of thumb for an even bigger world of herbs. So, here are some thoughts.
- If you aren’t familiar with an herb and want to try to expand your
parameters, take five minutes to research it online. Then, try it as the
featured taste in plain scrambled eggs, a baked potato or chicken breast.
Remember the fresh-dry rule and season as you otherwise would – some butter or
olive oil, salt, and pepper.
- Ask! If you’re lucky enough to know your produce guy, ask him about
different herbs and what they might go well with. Also, don’t be afraid to ask
at restaurants, particularly ones you frequent often. I’ve learned more about
Thai and Indian cooking from just talking to restaurant staff than I have from
reading. One Beach chef once insisted I come in the kitchen so he could show me
how he got the right temperature on a wilted herb side dish that was
otherworldly.
- Try new dishes. Try new cuisines. Try to pick out different herbal
flavors.
Here are a few classic dishes or preparations with time-honored use of herbs.
- Tomato and basil – from soups and pasta to fresh versions with
mozzarella for a super-easy classic.
- There are thousands of pesto varieties with recipes online. Nothing
could be easier than pesto.
- Lamb without rosemary (and garlic, of course) is a crime.
- Salmon and dill, sauced or not.
- Scrambled eggs and chervil.
- Pasta with butter and sage.
“Classic” depends on the location of course, and one of my favorite all-time dishes is dependent on one herb – Thai basil! As you explore the world of herbs, you will find that there are numerous types of basil, most with mildly different tastes. However, Thai basil is the most unique, with a bright, floral taste that pops freshness with a slightly sweet anise taste. It isn’t the easiest herb to find every day. I only enjoy the fresh variety (imported pastes aren’t horrible but I find them way too oily), however, it is well worth the effort.
A few times a year I break down and order quite a few Thai and Indian staples through import websites. But that’s hard to coordinate with access to Thai basil, so I’ve made the following dish dozens of ways. This one is the simplest – and delicious.
Make a small bowl of cooking sauce: ½ cup chicken broth, 1tbs soy sauce, 1tsp oyster sauce, 1tsp fish sauce, ¼ tsp fresh crushed ginger, ½ tsp white sugar, ½ tsp brown sugar.
Warm a small amount of peanut or canola oil in pan or wok, brown two boneless, skinless chicken breasts chopped into bite-size pieces over medium-high heat until pinkness starts to fade. Then add one medium red onion, sliced into spirals, 1tbs or more chopped, fresh garlic, one sliced Thai chili (careful, hot!) or other similar hot pepper. Cook, stirring until you get caramelization. Add a couple tsps of your cooking sauce, stir until the sauce caramelizes – another minute or so. Then add the rest of the sauce and use to deglaze the bottom of the plan and create a glaze on your chicken.
Remove from heat, toss in a cup of slightly torn fresh Thai basil leaves. Serve with rice.
Learning to cook well with herbs can be a fascinating way to liven up both your cooking – and your shopping. And it’s legal everywhere!
Author/writer Michael W. Sasser has written on food and dining in South Florida and abroad for hundreds of publications, ranging from Where Miami and the Sun-Sentinel Group to Frommer’s Fodor’s, Time Out, Fresh Guides, Black Book NY and more.
This was originally published in Wire Magazine Issue 48.2018