28
Mar
Today I walked to work with one of the Alterna consultants who has been here since October and is now moving onto Oaxaca, Mexico. Originally from Austria, in the past 20 odd years she has traveled everywhere – working and enjoying the vastness of Russia, the diversity of Africa, the colors of Central and South America, and more. Always bright in her red windbreaker, I spotted her as soon as I exited my apartment on Sexta Calle and caught up with her heading straight down the main street towards the office. I bought my departure ticket the day before, I told her, so I have less than a month left in Guate. She is leaving Xela in just a few days. Walking single file along the narrow sidewalks that we have learned to traverse, we traded our “favorites” about the place we’ll be leaving behind.
The first thing that came to my mind is the familiarity. Xela is Guatemala’s second biggest city, but along the cobblestone streets of the historical center I feel like I’m in a small town. At work every morning I am greeted by the scruffy beards of the young men brushing against my cheek and the sing-song “buenos dias!” of the young women in my ear as each one leans to kiss me good morning. Shopkeepers I have met just once beam to me as I pass by their store windows and call out pleasantries; we bump into the Pool & Beer bartender at the much-loved Sabor de India restaurant; then see both owners at the Trama Textiles fashion show, along with a dozen other known faces. Names may not always be traded, but cheeks are always kissed, followed by warm hugs. In the evening, walking towards home, the cathedral is like a beacon; a pencil sketch drawn against the sunset. During nights out, we dance together in groups, bumping and laughing and laughing more, and occasionally getting the salsa moves right. When I wrote this post two months ago, I sought exactly this sense of community, and to make it my own. The next place I live in will likely be much bigger than Xela, but I hope I will feel as a part of the neighborhood as I do here.
Another aspect I love is the history that is evident in everything. Buildings (both church and state), although remade and repainted after earthquakes and many rainy seasons, were conceived centuries ago; just as important now as they were then. And beyond these buildings are ancient volcanoes, mystical in how much they’ve overseen, and how many generations have gazed back at them. The sense of time engrained in everything astounds me. Wide, open skies unobstructed by the low buildings give way to stars that are older still.
A quality that I truly enjoy in people is appreciating something for what it is – not in comparison to another place or preconceived notion. Without a condescending shrug for a “developing country.” A lot of my least favorite occurrences are unfortunately so universal that it disheartens me – sexual harassment at the forefront. I have yet to go somewhere where this isn’t part of the norm.
My co-worker and I traded observations, good and bad, as we neared the black gate of Alterna. A few hours later we hugged goodbye. I wouldn’t be surprised to run into her in a few years, while exploring another country. Certainly another favorite is gaining friends from all over. Whether in their hometown or in a temporary one, I’ll be looking out for the people who became my community.
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